"travel leaves a mark"

It’s not an exaggeration to say Thailand has some of the best beaches in the world. Unfortunately, summer is the rainy season, but there was no way we were going to travel half way around the world to Thailand and not go to the beaches! We did some research and discovered that “rainy” usually consists of afternoon or evening showers and the rest of the day is warm and sunny— it sounded quite acceptable. Plus, the off-season meant fewer people to contend with!

The rain literally began as our plane touched down and didn’t really let up until our second full day. We had a brief window of sunshine to go out and get some dinner, but we were holed-up in our room most of the first day. Luckily, we had our own villa at the Ayara Hilltops Resort and some good books.

We did quite a bit of research on Phuket beaches before settling on Surin Beach and Ayara Hilltops. Patong, the largest and most active beach, is a party town with lots of Euro-trash. It’s sordid and sleazy, with “massage” parlors, strip clubs, and “ping-pong shows,” just like Bangkok. We immediately crossed that off as a potential place to stay. The airport is towards the north and we didn’t want to drive the length of the island, so that eliminated the southern beaches. We wanted to stay on the west coast, on the Andaman Sea, so Surin Beach seemed like the perfect fit— and it turned out to be exactly that!

When the weather cleared and we finally made it down to the beach, it was a mess! The storms had washed all kinds of debris up onto the beach and the rough surf tossed lounge chairs that had been caught by high tide. Bright red flags posted on the sand warned that swimming was not allowed, but quite a few people ignored the restriction. We found a few surviving lounge chairs and sat out in the sun for a bit, enjoying the rhythmic sound of the crashing waves. The next four days would be nothing but sunshine!

There are quite a few good places to eat along Surin Beach and we had lunch and dinner there most days. The highlight for us was The Red Tablecloth. We became regulars, or as much of regulars as you can be over a five day stretch; we ate one meal there each day, including lunch just before heading to the airport. The owner is an affable woman who told us that even though business is slower, she prefers the off-season because it gives her time to get to know her customers. The food at The Red Tablecloth is terrific, with all kinds of traditional Thai dishes: pork satay, noodles, seafood, curry, and of course, mango with sticky rice. There was no shortage of Tiger beer and the prices were extremely reasonable. Each time we left, they’d say “see you tomorrow;” it was sad on our last day to tell them that we wouldn’t be seeing them for a long while. The Red Tablecloth is my number one recommendation for eating on Surin Beach as much for the people as for the food!

We also ate a couple of good meals at Nok, which is also located on Surin Beach and serves traditional, simple Thai specialties. The people here were also very nice, and the food was also quite good, but it felt like we were cheating on the owner of The Red Tablecloth. It was like we were in some kind of twisted, food-love triangle. When we went back to Nok for dinner the second time, our waiter remembered us. He gave us the same table and even asked if we’d like the same dishes: spring rolls, fried noodles, and Tiger Beers— the cornerstones of any good Thai meal!

Before we discovered the friendly, food-goodness of The Red Tablecloth and Nok, we ate at Taste. This restaurant was a little more high-end than the other two. The chef had responded personally to reviews on Tripadvisor, which shows he really cares about his customers and the food he serves. We started with blackened tuna and an order of shrimp with garlic, basil, and chili. For our entrees, we had red snapper and crispy pork belly with rice and broccoli. All the food was good, but it was a little more upscale and trendier than what we had been looking for. Since we were at the beach, we wanted the casual, “eat barefoot” type of places that we eventually found.

In addition to the terrific restaurants lining the beach, there are a couple of tailor shops offering custom fit clothing. Each time I passed by, I was sweaty and covered in sunscreen, so I never went in. However, one proprietor was very friendly and quite persistent. When I told him that I dress very casually for work, he responded by saying I should let him make a gentleman out of me. He was a nice guy, and seemed a little bored with the off-season lack of customers. In retrospect, I probably should have at least gone in and checked out how much it would’ve cost to make me a gentleman!

We set up a day trip tour to the Phi Phi Islands by high-speed boat ($110 per person with Phuket Adventures). Our guides were terrific— Alice and Bom (as he said: “no atom, no ‘splode”). Despite that joke, Bom was pretty funny, and both guides were friendly and knowledgeable. There may be places in this world that are as beautiful as the Phi Phi Islands, but you’d be hard-pressed to find anyplace more beautiful! The cliffs rise straight out of the ocean and climb hundreds of feet into the air; they’re one of the most spectacular things I have seen. We began by snorkeling off the larger of the two islands in crystal clear blue water filled with coral and tropical fish. Seeing and feeding the monkeys who live on the islands was pretty cool too, but we were warned to treat them with caution, as they are wild animals. Alice told us about a woman who got too close to one of the baby monkeys and was attacked by the mother. We also spent time at several other spots around the two islands, but I wonder if it would have been better to have just spent more time in one or two places.

Unfortunately, human impact on the Phi Phi Islands is quite visible. Trash, oil and gas slicks can sometimes be seen floating in the lagoons where boats stop for tourists to disembark. By going to see these incredible wonders of nature, we are gradually destroying them. While our tour group was very good about collecting our garbage and leaving nothing behind, just being there changes the environment slightly. Multiply that by hundreds of tourists per day and you cause a drastic impact. The dichotomy of being in awe of this beautiful place and knowing that by being there I am contributing to its demise was something I couldn’t shake the entire time.

Phuket was definitely the highlight of our time in Thailand. Though it’s a well-known, tourist-laden spot, it’s also nothing short of spectacular! It was hard hit by the Christmas tsunami of 2004, but has bounced back. It’s worth a trip to Thailand just for the beaches, but if you’re traveling in Southeast Asia for any other reason, a respite on the beaches is certainly in order, and in many cases, necessary.

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In August 2011, readers of Travel +Leisure magazine voted Bangkok the best city in the entire world! I read this just after returning from Bangkok and thought: Did I miss something? Don’t get me wrong, Bangkok has a lot to offer. Anyone going to Southeast Asia should visit. But the best city in the world? From my experience, it wasn’t even the best city in Asia.

By all accounts, Bangkok is huge. You really have no idea how overwhelming it is until you see it for yourself. With over nine million people, its population exceeds that of New York City, and so does its traffic, squalor, and frenzy. The easiest way to get around is by Skytrain (the city’s relatively new mass transit system) or riverboat. In fact, it’s said that if you can’t get somewhere using either of these methods, it’s probably not worth going. In addition to the people, traffic, and urban sprawl, the heat and humidity hit you like a one-two punch— within minutes of being outdoors, your shirt is drenched with sweat. We knew all this going in— it’s part of traveling in Southeast Asia— but in Bangkok it’s just fuel to the fire.

If I had to describe Bangkok in one word, it would be “unrelenting:” the congestion, the heat, the people soliciting everything under the sun. Everywhere you go, “friendly” people engage you in conversation that eventually leads to some scam. There are all kinds of nefarious activities readily available, and not necessarily easy to avoid.

A strange dichotomy exists in this city, where prostitution is readily available any time of day but criticism of the king is met with harsh repercussions ranging from fines to jail time. Offers for “massages” and “ping-pong shows” are everywhere, and invariably lead to opportunities to pay for sex. We stayed on Surawong Road and frequented the Patpong night market. Lining both sides of the street were strip clubs with their doors open to attract passers-by. Dozens of girls danced on stage dressed in identical bikinis, each wearing a number to distinguish them to customers. Promoters out front are persistent to say the least; any eye contact and they’ll follow you for blocks. There was nothing sexy about any of it; the whole thing was really just sad. There are so many stories about girls forced into prostitution, and seeing it is disturbing.

Bangkok is very sexually open-minded, not only about prostitution, but sexual orientation too. It seems to be the “lady-boy” capital of the world. Transvestites are everywhere, and are accepted as part of the fabric of society. It’s certainly good to see people able to express themselves freely without persecution, though I wonder why there’s such a disproportionate number of “lady-boys” in Thailand as opposed to the rest of the world. I saw a lot of “lady-boys” who were obviously men, but I’d love to know how many I mistook for real women?

Questionable activities aside, there are plenty of “respectable” things to do in Bangkok: markets, street food, and Buddhist temples (Wats) are the main attractions. There are three main Wats, all near the Royal Palace. Wat Phra Kaew (“Temple of the Emerald Buddha”) is located on the palace grounds. It would be an enormous understatement to describe the temple’s architecture as grand, ornate, or even spectacular. About a dozen or so buildings make up the complex and each one is incredible in its own way. The unusual design of the palace really stands out as well. Constructed by British architects, this Italian Renaissance-style building was built with a Thai roof— I overheard a guide describe it as “English with a Thai hat.” On a practical note, very few indoor spaces are accessible to visitors, so be prepared to be out under the hot sun.

Wat Pho (“Temple of the Reclining Buddha”) is located on the adjacent block. The impressive reclining Buddha statue is 150 feet long and 50 feet high. As I walked around the grounds, a man struck up a conversation with me about my tattoos. He showed me his traditional Buddhist tattoos and said his monk friend did them. He told me Wat Pho was closing and that he would take me to see the monk tattoo artist across the way. I knew I was being scammed, but he was amiable, so I started walking with him as I tried to come up with a polite way to excuse myself. That’s when my companion yelled, “Where the hell are you going?” and brought me back to reality. I quickly walked away and spent the rest of the time at Wat Pho feeling very stupid!

Across the river from the palace is Wat Arun (“Temple of the Dawn”), which has a much older, less ornate feel to it, but was my favorite amongst the three Wats we visited. We climbed to the top on the steepest staircase I have ever seen. Only when I looked down from the top did I realize just how precipitous the climb down was going to be. It was definitely a little scary, but the view was absolutely worth it!

Outside of central Bangkok is Wat Bang Phra where monks offer sak yant (protective tattoos). Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to visit or get a tattoo, though the idea did initially appeal to me. Those seeking a tattoo need to make an offering to Buddha, usually consisting of flowers and cigarettes— I didn’t even realize Buddha was a smoker. The monks then resell these items to support the Wat. I looked into getting a tattoo there, but I had questions about their sanitary practices. The monks reuse the same eight needles over and over. Needles not in use sit in a “cleaning solution,” though I have no idea exactly what that consists of. It’d be pretty ironic to get HIV or Hepatitis from a “protective” tattoo; I just didn’t think it was wise to take the chance.

The Chatuchak Market (only open weekends) is one of the biggest markets I have ever seen! They sell pretty much everything you can think of: jewelry, clothes, hats, paintings, sculptures, food— everything! If you think it’s hot outside in the sun, it’s even worse inside the tents. The narrow, crowded walkways and stagnant air trap the heat, but getting a good bargain on a unique item will make up for it. Just stay hydrated and enjoy!

The street food alone is worth a trip to Thailand! Every night, Silom Road is lined with food vendors selling everything from grilled meats to noodles and broth, and it is all so good! Just wander up and down the street and eat whatever smells good; it’s a street buffet. Many of the vendors have seating and will bring your food over to your table— now that’s classy street dining!

There are plenty of indoor restaurants as well. One of the best, Suda’s, is located on Soi 14, just off of Sukhumvit Road near the Asok Skytrain stop. The same woman has run this restaurant for 30 years. When I read that, I decided we had to try this place. I knew we were in for a great, authentic Thai meal as soon as I saw all the locals eating here! I started with coconut shrimp and followed it with pork in a red curry sauce. My companion had coconut milk soup with chicken, and mango with sticky rice for dessert. The mango and sticky rice became a daily staple for the rest of our stay in Thailand. With drinks added, the bill came to the equivalent of $21 USD— you can’t beat the food or the price!

A thirty-minute, ten-dollar cab ride in a torrential downpour brought us to the Crystal Design Center. Strange as it sounds, this shopping mall is home to Est. 33, a brewpub run by the Singha beer corporation. Though Singha is the Thai version of Heineken, the brewpub makes an excellent copper ale and a really nice dark beer. The cuisine is American in both style and price— way more money than we paid anywhere else in Thailand. It’s only worth the trip if you’re really into good beer or if you’re tired of Thai food.

One of the most well-known tourist attractions in Bangkok is Jim Thompson’s House. Thompson was a U.S. soldier stationed in Bangkok during World War II. After the war, he decided to stay and revive traditional Thai silk making. Thompson did really well for himself, and his textile company still bears his name today. Architecturally, his house is interesting because it was constructed from parts of six old Thai houses. It’s also filled with many prints and statues that Thompson collected over the years. Jim Thompson disappeared in the Malaysian jungle in 1967; no one knows what became of him. I wonder if his house would be as much of a tourist attraction if he died in his own bed at the age of 90? The intrigue of Thompson’s disappearance seems to be what fuels tourism at his former residence.

Tours are available to Ayuthaya, former royal capital of Siam (Thailand), located about 50 miles north of Bangkok. Unless I’m going someplace that’s difficult to get to or where safety is a concern, I prefer to venture out and discover things on my own rather than be locked into a tour. Since Ayuthaya is easily accessible by train, we decided to explore it ourselves. Be forewarned— the run-down, low-budget trains look like antiques and the air inside is stifling! Open windows and a couple fans offer the only respite from the heat on the hour-long journey. However, the train ride is an interesting way to see an authentic part of Thai life, as nearly everyone on the train is local.

Upon arrival at the Ayuthaya train station, visitors cross the street, pass the enticing smells of street-food vendors, and head down to the river where ferries await. Being on an island where three rivers converge made Ayuthaya easily defendable, and as such, a desirable location for a capital city. The island is walkable, but you can also rent bicycles. The city thrived from around 1350 until the Burmese sacked it 1767. Despite being comparatively young, the ruins look about as old as those in Rome. The climate and stratigraphy did nothing to help preserve these brick and mortar structures— the veneer has come off most, and many are leaning so precariously that you don’t want to stand too close. Dozens of Wats are strewn all over the island, making this by far one of the most amazing places I have ever been! Whether you take a tour or go on your own, anyone visiting Bangkok should take a daytrip up to Ayuthaya.

It’s difficult to sum up Bangkok. It’s a study in duality, a “Jekyll and Hyde,” where neither side can be, nor should be, ignored. The touristy sights are worth seeing, but it’s also easy to venture off the beaten path and have more authentic, local experiences. I question whether I’d go back. Part of me feels like I may have missed something. Another part of me says: I’ve seen enough. If given the chance, I think I would visit again, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to do it.

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As a kid, I never imagined I’d ever go to Vietnam. To me, it was just a place the army had sent my dad during the war. I was born a little after the war ended, and all I knew was what I had seen in the media, movies, and TV— oh yeah, and what I had learned in history class too (apologies to my history teachers, I guess Full Metal Jacket had a little more resonance). Lately, though, there’s been a buzz about Vietnam, and my curiosity was piqued. So, when I decided to visit Southeast Asia, Vietnam seemed like a no-brainer!

The first thing one notices when you arrive in Ho Chi Minh City is the cacophony of motorbike engines and honking horns; it seems like chaos. The impression is that the only rule of the road is that there are no rules. However, once you’ve taken your life in your hands by crossing one of these streets, you quickly realize that driving in Ho Chi Minh City is a well-choreographed ballet and the horns are an elaborate way of communicating. Traffic in a city this large and crowded is not, and cannot be, chaos— it just wouldn’t work.

The other thing one notices are the enormous trees all around the city. The park in the city center, near the Notre Dame Basilica and Reunification Palace, has some of the tallest trees I’ve ever seen! They welcome visitors and make you feel right at home.

Notre Dame Basilica, built in the late 1800s for French colonists, is made of beautiful red brick imported from France. The basilica is more impressive from the outside than from within, but definitely worth a look. Just outside, many of the beggars have physical deformities that invoke thoughts of Agent Orange exposure. While that may or may not be the case, the feelings of guilt they cultivate seem to be intentional.

Across from the basilica is the post office designed by Gustav Eiffel, constructed with all the elegant details you would expect from French colonial architecture and Eiffel. Inside, it would be easy to believe you’re in the middle of Paris if not for the large painting of Ho Chi Minh staring down at you.

Entering Reunification Palace, in the center of Ho Chi Minh City, is like entering a time warp. The décor and architecture is late 1960s and early ‘70s through and through. My parents had the same awful drapes when I was a kid! Strolling around the palace is interesting, the view from the roof is beautiful, and the basement is just creepy. Out front are replicas of the tanks that crashed through the palace gates on April 30, 1975, signaling the fall of Saigon and the end of the war.

For me, Ben Than Market is the pulse of the city and the main attraction. The market is sensory overload:

• Sights— goods piled so high and so close together it’s difficult to focus on one thing.
• Sounds— every proprietor calling out to have a look at their goods, and people bargaining all around.
• Smells— dried fish and durian fruit produce an aroma like nothing you’ve smelled before or would want to again.

The market has some really beautiful items for sale at very reasonable prices, however it’s necessary to bargain. The price of everything is inflated and you shouldn’t pay more than fifty percent of the asking price. That being said, the asking price for a t-shirt was $4. It’s easy to haggle over a dollar, but the average annual salary for a resident of Ho Chi Minh City is equivalent to $3,000 USD (and that’s double the average for the rest of the country). That dollar means more to them than it does to me, so most of the time I gave in after a reasonable reduction in price.

The War Remnants Museum is definitely worth seeing, but you have to be prepared for a one sided story of the Vietnam War (or the “American War”, as it’s called there). Of course, the U.S. is made out to be the villain, and no matter how you feel about it, the fact of the matter is that both sides did atrocious things. It’s difficult to see pictures of children affected by Agent Orange exposure, but it’s also an important thing to see. Americans like to think that we have some ethical code, that we’re above others, but the reality is that we can be just as brutal as anyone else. Of course, the Viet Cong were vicious as well, but you won’t see any of that here. I can accept the government propaganda, but what really bothered me were the U.S. dog tags for sale in the gift shop. They looked authentic: beat-up and rusted. If they weren’t real, they were the best reproductions I’ve ever seen. This goes way beyond distasteful, well into the realm of offensive, because they most likely came from dead or captured American soldiers.

Despite the past, the Vietnamese people are friendly and really do like Americans. We never experienced any ill will amongst the people we encountered. In fact, most were happy and pleasantly surprised to meet Americans— they mostly get Australian tourists.

While walking around the city and taking in the sights, there are a few noteworthy buildings you should definitely see:

• The Opera House
• The Rex Hotel— home of the “Five O’clock Follies,” the daily U.S. military briefing during the war
• The Hotel De Ville— once a grand French hotel, now home to the People’s Committee. No “regular” people are allowed too close; we were ushered away from the main entrance. The statue of Ho Chi Minh out front, tutoring a child (in the way of Socialist ideals perhaps?) is a bit amusing.

All three of these buildings are in close proximity to each other and easy to find.

Vietnam is not generally regarded as a beer culture. Tiger, a generic pilsner, is the main beer of choice, but good beer can be found in Ho Chi Minh City. Hoa Vien (28 Mac Dinh Chi Street, Dist. 1) is a Czech style brew house created in partnership with breweries in the Czech Republic. Their light and dark beers hold true to traditional brewing standards, and are terrific! Though the beer is Czech, the food is Vietnamese, and also excellent. The sliced, roast pork was tender, juicy and delicious.

Pho is the dish in Ho Chi Minh City. Vermicelli noodles, broth, scallions, beef or chicken, and some spices. It’s so good and really inexpensive. Every place serves its own variation, but Pho Binh (7, Lý Chính Thắng) was the best. Purportedly frequented by U.S. soldiers during the war, the owner is said to have photo albums filled with pictures that he readily takes out and shows customers. During our visit there were no photos, no albums, and the owner didn’t seem interested in anything of the sort. My guess is that it was the current owner’s father who had the photo albums. This guy “only” had the best pho we ate during our entire stay in Vietnam. It’s all he makes, and he makes it great! Two bowls and two bottles of water cost us the equivalent of $4 USD, and we left feeling full.

We had another great meal at Bo Tung Xeo (31 Ly Tu Trong Street), where they grill various meats to perfection. Well, not all the meat is grilled; the goat penis is steamed. Even though the goat penis does come with the balls as a side dish (both appropriate and tempting), we opted for pork and crocodile. The pork was excellent, and the crocodile was interesting. Crocodile meat tasted a little like steak. However, there’s an outer layer of what seemed like crunchy fat; we weren’t sure whether we were supposed to eat that part. We tried it, but quickly decided to just eat the meat and leave the rest. All in all, a good meal!

Day Trips:

We toured the Mekong Delta with Saigon Tourist, a well-known tour outfit recommended by our hotel. About an hour and a half south of Ho Chi Mihn City we arrived at the town of My Tho, long considered a gateway to the Mekong Delta. Mekong means “Nine Dragons,” in reference to the nine major tributaries that form the delta. The river originates 2,800 miles away in the Tibetan plateau and dumps the last of its nutrient-rich sediment here before emptying into the South China Sea. The delta covers an area of approximately 15,000 square miles and is one of the most biologically diverse regions in the entire world. The region is also a major food source for the Vietnamese people, producing a surplus of rice as well as fruits, fish, sugarcane, and shrimp, just to name a few. We crossed the silt laden, coffee colored waters from My Tho to Ben Tre in a boat made for about 10 people or so. From there, we boarded a long, shallow rowboat and made our way up a tiny channel, past muddy banks dense with thick vegetation. Our first stop was a bee and fruit farm, where we had honey fresh from the comb and fruits right off the trees. The beekeeper used no protective gear and instead of a smoke machine, he blew cigarette smoke to calm the bees— definitely a low-tech operation. Lunch was provided on another farm, and there was so much food, we could barely finish it. I didn’t want to seem gluttonous, but I also felt compelled not to be wasteful, so we ate pretty much everything put in front of us. It was easily more food than most locals eat all day. It was such a strange dichotomy. After lunch, we were offered some snake whiskey— a jar of whiskey with dead snakes, most notably a cobra, marinating in it. We both declined, but later I couldn’t decide whether I had missed an opportunity or dodged a bullet. We continued the day meandering the small channels that snake their way through the jungle, stopping off here and there to get a sense of how the people there make a living. The delta is an amazing place, teeming with life, and I am grateful I got the opportunity to see it and the amazing people who live there.

The next day we toured the Cu Chi Tunnels, also with Saigon Tourist. The Vietnamese people began this network of tunnels during the French colonization of southern Vietnam and expanded them during the Vietnam War. The Viet Cong used these tunnels for guerilla strikes, living space, supply routes, etc. The tour mostly consists of walking the grounds. We visited exhibits showing how the “VC” lived, booby traps, ambushes, and ways the tunnels were disguised. Visitors may also enter rooms and even go through one of the tunnels. The section of tunnel open to visitors has actually been expanded by about fifty percent, and they’re still as cramped a space as I have seen; in fact, I didn’t even go through. The line in front of me came to a halt and all I pictured was being stuck in the tunnel, not able to stand or move. The most interesting part of the tour for me was having the opportunity to shoot an M-16 rifle, the standard issue rifle for U.S. soldiers during the war. Visitors can also opt to shoot an AK-47, the North Vietnamese weapon of choice. This was more of a showy, photo-op, gift shop type of tour, and while interesting, not as authentic an experience as the Mekong Delta.

I wasn’t really sure what to expect in Vietnam. I had high hopes, and it exceeded any and everything I could have asked for. I’m hooked, I love it, and I want to see more: the beaches of Da Nang, Hue City, the mountains, and Hanoi. It’s unlike anywhere else I’ve been and was by far the best place we went on our trip to Southeast Asia. And, now I can begin stories by saying: “Back when I was in ‘Nam…”

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In 1819, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles established Singapore as an indispensable trading port for the British East India Company. Within five years, the British were in complete control of the island. Singapore became a seedy port town filled with sailors looking for debauchery, and locals willing to provide it. Nowadays, it’s billed as a gateway to Asia, a way to “dip your toe in the water” in this part of the world. A major cosmopolitan city, financial center and port, Singapore feels very Western—perhaps a bit too Western. Non-descript skyscrapers and countless malls abound, giving the city-center a generic, bland quality indistinguishable from other major cities. The British influence, in the form of colonial architecture, can still be felt all over the city.

Despite all this, it’s easy to find the authentic Asian Singapore. Not surprisingly, Chinatown is the place to start. After all, seventy-four percent of Singapore’s five million inhabitants are Chinese— and it’s all about the food! The various markets, street stalls, and low-budget-looking restaurants are the way to eat in Singapore. Don’t be nervous or put off by the idea of street food— strict governmental standards ensure the food is clean and safe and, judging by the look of things, they don’t mess around!

Situated just beyond the skyscrapers and business center, Chinatown still retains a bit of colonial charm amid the Chinese influence. After checking into The Scarlet (33 Erskine Rd.), a boutique hotel in the heart of this neighborhood, we headed out to explore and find a place to eat. Wandering through the streets, we were solicited by every shopkeeper and restaurant owner we passed (we soon learned this was conventional practice in each Asian city we visited). We opted to eat at a restaurant filled with locals: Oriental Chinese Restaurant (195 New Bridge Rd.). The generic name aside, this place was really good. We had meat buns, prawn skewers, chicken heart skewers, and chili crab. I was apprehensive about the chicken hearts and looking forward to the chili crab, but I was wrong in both cases. The chicken hearts were terrific: juicy and flavorful with just the right amount of spice rub. On the other hand, I forgot what a chore it is to eat crab and how little crabmeat you actually get out of it.

The next morning we searched for Ya Kim, highly recommended for its kaya toast, a Singapore breakfast specialty. We couldn’t find this small stall in the huge food center, so we opted for another place serving the same dish. The toast is covered with coconut jam and served with a very runny soft-boiled egg. The accompanying Kopi coffee is strong, but it’s sweetened with condensed milk and so good!

Beyond the culture and heritage of Chinatown lies Orchard Road, the major shopping drag in Singapore. Every inch of this area is, literally, lined with malls. It’s a sight to see, but very generic. Unless you’re looking to do some serious shopping, I would neither stay nor spend an extended amount of time in this section of the city. Just off Orchard Road, however, lies Emerald Road, a side street that offers a window into what Singapore looked like during the British Colonial period— definitely worth checking out.

Walking down Orchard towards the Marina brought us to the Singapore Art Museum, an old British colonial building housing modern art. Two of the galleries featured interesting paintings— modern takes on traditional Asian art and themes. The main exhibition was a collection of video work, which is not really my thing, so the building proved to be more interesting than most of the art. Though we didn’t have time to visit, I think we should have opted for the National Museum instead.

The afternoon brought us to Yet Con (25 Pervis St.), a long running, no frills establishment famous for Hainanese chicken— boiled chicken and fresh chopped cucumbers served with broth and a bowl of rice. I know boiled chicken doesn’t sound appetizing, but it was really flavorful, though some chili sauce didn’t hurt. This is the place for Hainanese chicken in Singapore.

As we headed back towards our hotel to regroup for the evening, we walked along the waterfront, past the Marina. Beautiful parks, bridges, and views abound in this highly touristy area. The Marina home to the giant, somewhat strange Merlion statue (the symbol of the city) and beautiful views of Singapore’s financial district skyline. Worth seeing, but I wouldn’t spend all day there being jostled by tour groups.

Along the river, in what’s considered the heart of Singapore, you’ll find chain restaurants and cheesy activities that cater to tourists, but I found myself here looking for beer. Brewwerkz on Merchant Road in the Riverpoint Center felt a little like a chain, but I couldn’t find any evidence to confirm nor deny that theory. They brew their own beer and that was enough convincing for me! I had:

• IPA, which according to their menu has won several awards
• Oatmeal stout, which tasted very typical
• “Black Rabbit,” a dark wheat beer made with banana and cloves
• Amber beer made from sticky rice

While the “Black Rabbit” was interesting, the amber was the real winner; perhaps because it’s brewed with local ingredients— rice— as opposed to imported ones. The beer was good, but the food menu was too “Western,” so we opted to eat elsewhere.

We headed back down to Smith Street in Chinatown. Otherwise known as “Food Street,” Smith closes down to traffic every night and becomes a pedestrian drag lined with food stalls and tables. What we think of as typical Chinese food abounds in this feast for the senses— chicken or seafood with fried rice or noodles is better than any you’ve had back in the States. For more daring eaters, delicacies such as stingray can be had as well. Though I can be adventurous at times, the stingray was just not calling out to me. I had chicken fried rice with some spicy chili sauce and a huge (633ml) Tiger beer— not a bold choice, but so good! The only problem with chopsticks is that I can’t shovel the food down my throat fast enough!

The Maxwell Food Center in Chinatown is one of the best places to eat in the city! The stalls are numbered and easy to find— many only serving one specialty dish, as is the case with Zhen Zhen Porridge (#54). We went for breakfast, and the line was an hour long. I wasn’t sure if the guidebook recommended it because it was so popular or if it was so popular because the guidebook recommended it. Judging by all the locals waiting in line, I decided it was the former. This rice porridge comes with chicken or fish, scallions, some fried crispy stuff on top, and a raw egg, which cooks in the hot porridge. I added raw chilies for some more flavor. It was good and certainly worth trying, but it’s just not a Westerner’s idea of breakfast. The next morning we had a toasted coconut roll pastry at Pan Cake (#26). Definitely more my kind of breakfast! We rounded that out with a fried dough fritter, a cup of Kopi coffee, and sugarcane juice with lemon. The Maxwell Food Center is definitely a must!

We took the MRT (subway) and spent an afternoon checking out the various Hindu and Buddhist temples in Little India. Though the temples are beautiful and definitely worth the trip, Little India is dirty, crowded, and a little seedy in some areas. The highlight is the Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya temple, which has a 15 meter high statue of Buddha and a piece of the Bodhi tree under which the Buddha is said to have reached enlightenment. Although I sometimes feel strange treating a religious place like a tourist attraction, the gentleman in charge was very friendly, pointing out various aspects and highlights of the temple. I guess the main thing to remember is that visiting a place of worship is a way to learn about and connect with other people. As long as visitors remain respectful, it’s okay— still, it feels strange.

The Lau Pa Sat Food Center in the financial district is probably the most beautiful in the city, and the variety and quality of the food is terrific too! The building is a Victorian-style pavilion with beautiful, ornate, wrought iron details. This style of architecture, seen in many buildings and rail stations in Europe, is by far my favorite! I had pork noodles at stall number 102, coincidentally called Pork Noodles. The dish consisted of noodles and broth topped with some crispy, fried pork. So freakin’ good! Drinks are sold separately in the center of the pavilion. This food center is crowded with finance people on weekdays, but was relatively empty during the day on Saturday and Sunday.

The big tourist attraction is the Night Safari at the Singapore Zoo. We figured, why not? Night safari… large nocturnal predators… us not knowing where we are, unable to see… sounds like a recipe for fun! We took the MRT to the bus station at Ang Mo Kio and boarded a city bus for the zoo. As the bus pulled out and the engine revved, we quickly realized we weren’t accelerating very much at all. A few minutes later, as we made the first stop, we saw smoke and smelled burning rubber. That was our cue to get off the bus and wait for the next one. Everyone else had come to the same conclusion, and we soon realized that twice as many people would be waiting for the next already crowded bus. The buses to the zoo only run every hour or so, and by that time it was already getting late. We decided the Night Safari would have to wait until the next trip to Singapore. At least we broke down near the station and not an hour away in the middle of nowhere!

While Singapore may not be what you would call “truly Asian,” it does have a lot to offer, and yes, it is a good way to introduce yourself to Asian culture. It’s not a “must see” and I wouldn’t spend more than a few nights there, but if you’re going to Southeast Asia, it can be a good place to start your trip. It’s definitely a good introduction to Asian cuisine and that, in and of itself, is worth a visit.

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The more I visit sleepy, little, backwater towns of Europe— towns like Sienna, Bruges, and Toledo— the more I love them. Once political and economic powerhouses, these places were forgotten by time only to be rediscovered by tourists centuries later. Like mummies, they’re preserved in the state they were in, seemingly unaffected by centuries of modernization. Yes, they’re touristy— most of their economies center on tourism— but they’re also a window into the past.

Toledo is only a 30-minute train ride from Madrid, making it an easy day trip, but I decided to spend a night and take my time exploring.

It’s important to know a bit about Toledo’s complex history to fully appreciate its splendor. The Romans, Visigoths, Moors, and finally Christians all ruled this impressive hilltop town at one time or another. It was both a center of religious tolerance and the frontline for Spain’s Reconquista— the expulsion of the Moors from southern Spain by King Alphonso VI. Christians took back Toledo in 1085, and it served as the capital of Spain until the 16^th Century. These civilizations and events all left their imprint on the city’s architecture, food, and culture. It’s most famous for marzipan and Damascus steel, and souvenir shops hock both, but the Alcazar is Toledo’s real treasure.

The Alcazar, once a mighty fortress, was almost completely destroyed during the Spanish Civil War. This iconic structure now houses the Museo del Ejército (Army Museum). Entrance to the Alcazar (€5) is through a modern edifice, which houses an excavation of the building’s Roman foundation. From the lobby, escalators take visitors over the excavation and up to the main exhibit. Inside, the story of Spain’s military history is told from the early explorers through the present. Uniforms, armaments, flags, and medals of every sort are displayed in pristine condition, along with numerous other artifacts. It took less than two hours to get through the entire museum, and it was one of the most interesting exhibits I saw on my trip. If you are in Toledo or Madrid, the Alcazar is a must!

The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo is the town’s other main attraction, and though I don’t like the idea of paying to enter houses of worship (€7 in this case), it’s beautiful and a major reason to come to Toledo. This Gothic cathedral is not the largest I’ve seen, but it may be the most ornate; every wooden and marble surface seems to be sculpted. The carved, wooden alter-piece took seven years to complete; it stretches to the ceiling and is decorated with paint and gold leaf. The entire Cathedral is really quite a beautiful sight!

Before heading to the Cathedral, I grabbed some lunch at La Campana Gorda (c/ Hombre de Palo, 13). A lot of older locals congregate here to sip vermouth and chat the afternoon away. The bartender and staff are friendly and the simple, yet delicious tapas are worth a stop in.

Later that afternoon, I stopped into Gambrinus Cerveceria for a beer and some more tapas. The tapas here were not the typical cheese or cured meat on bread; instead, they served stewed meat baked into a flaky crust. They also make a venison stew that looked great, but I skipped it because I was there a little too early for dinner.

That evening I had beef stewed with peas in a tomato sauce at La Cuesta. The meal was alright, but I regretted not having the stew at Gambrinus instead. The beef stew at La Cuesta tasted vaguely like “Sloppy Joe.”

The next morning, while wandering around looking for breakfast and some postcards, I stumbled upon a gem: Damasquinados y Artesanía (Plaza San Salvador, 4) is a little jewelry shop where all the work is handmade by the owner. His tools, alongside some pieces in progress, lay on his worktable in the front window of the shop. The owner is a very friendly gentleman and we chatted for a little while; he told me he’s been making jewelry for 49 years! I purchased a beautiful pendant from the shop for €40. Similar looking pieces can be bought around town for a less money, but they’re machine-made reproductions— if you want a hand made, one of a kind piece, this shop is amazing! If jewelry isn’t your thing, he also makes chess sets.

Marzipan can be bought in every gift shop around town, and Santa Tomé is one of the better brands, but nothing beats marzipan made by the Sisters of the Santa Rita convent. Convents all over Spain sell sweet treats to the public and, no surprise, they do it better than most anyplace else!

The Mezquita Cristo de la Luz illustrates Toledo’s diverse history. Like many houses of worship in Toledo, this church was once a mosque. The Moorish architecture is evident in the floor plan and arches typical of many mosques. However, as much as this looks like a mosque, the large painting of Jesus on one of its walls clearly denotes its conversion to a church. Toledo’s mosques and synagogues were converted to churches after the Muslim and Jewish citizens were expelled during the Reconquista.

Likewise, Santa María la Blanca, originally used as a synagogue, was also converted to a church. Throughout Toledo’s history, Jews, Muslims, and Christians lived together— sometimes peacefully, sometimes contentiously.

La Iglesia de los Jesuitas has incredible views of the main Cathedral and the Alcazar from its bell towers. The staircase inside the towers leading up to the top is a bit disconcerting to say the least. The metal stairs hug the outer walls, and with no inner wall, the view to floor below is clear— I’m not sure if it was worse to look down at the floor or up to how high I still had to climb. I’ve had nightmares like this where the railing disappeared. I literally thought I was going to have a panic attack; my heart was beating so fast I could feel it pounding in my ears! The view was definitely worth it though! All the churches, synagogues, and mosques (other than the Cathedral) had an entrance fee of €2.30.

All in all, Toledo is a wonderful travel destination and worth much more than just a day trip! The history, sights, and food are incredible and certainly should be appreciated unhurried. The train from Madrid is €20 and the city bus from the station to Plaza Zocodover is €0,95. Certainly worth the money!

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“I suppose, from a modern moral point of view… the whole bullfight is indefensible; there is certainly much cruelty, there is always death, and I should not try to defend it now, only to tell honestly the things I have found true about it.”

-Ernest Hemingway, Death in the Afternoon, 1932

Hemingway didn’t have a moral dilemma about bullfighting. When he wrote of people’s aversions, it was usually in reaction to the brutal death of the horses involved. Modern bullfighting has evolved to protect the horses— otherwise I could not have attended. Why should I feel that way about the horses and not the bulls? Truthfully, I don’t know. Maybe it’s because the bull is naturally viewed as an aggressor, a threat; the feeling is visceral. Even so, I was uncertain about watching six bulls brutally slaughtered for entertainment. I wasn’t sure I could make it through one fight, let alone six, but it was something I felt compelled to witness. I don’t know if it was a desire to experience something quintessentially Spanish, or just because it’s unlike anything I had ever seen. I didn’t know what to expect, and as I waited for the bullfight to begin, my anxiety was palpable— for the bulls as well as the matadors. Once the fight started, though, my sole concern was involuntarily for the matador, and the impact of the bulls’ demise didn’t hit me until later that night. Bullfighting is brutal, bloody, and sad, but it would have been impossible for me to walk out early. There was something compelling in the violent, yet graceful contest, and as much as I hate to say it, I’d probably go again. I do wonder if the heyday of bullfighting has passed— it seemed to be a spectacle for an older generation; there were few young people in the crowd. I doubt Spanish bullfighting will ever disappear, but as the older generation passes, I can’t help but wonder, will the passion for it wane?

Like bullfighting itself, Madrid is more than what it seems; it needs to be experienced to be fully appreciated. Even though Madrid is the third most populous city in the European Union, it’s often overlooked due to its lack of iconic monuments. Even within Spain, it plays second fiddle to Barcelona when it comes to tourism. I myself underestimated Madrid; I figured it would be dirty, impersonal, and slightly overwhelming. I figured wrong! Madrid is one of the cleanest and most manageable cities I’ve been to. Most of the major sights are in close proximity to the city center, and no more than a 20-minute walk anywhere. In addition, it’s beautiful! The French Beaux-Arts architecture gives the city a dramatic and opulent feel. There’s no shortage of things to do: sporting events, world-class museums, cultural and historical sights, and extraordinary food. The end of February turned out to be a great time to visit— it was warm and sunny, soccer was still in season, and bullfighting was just getting underway. I couldn’t have asked for more!

For weeks, I had my mind set on seeing a soccer game, so my first night I made my way up to Santiago Bernabeu Stadium to watch Real Madrid take on Levante. Real Madrid are the New York Yankees of European fútbol: they buy the top players and win more than any other team. Cristiano Ronaldo is the team’s preeminent player and one of the two best in the entire world. Though I am not a fan of his, the style and skill with which he plays is extraordinary; he is a treat to watch. The game was exciting, with lots of scoring opportunities and, no surprise, Madrid won 2-0. Santiago Bernabeu holds 80,000 people, and my €40 bought me a seat so high up I needed a Sherpa guide to get there. I purchased my ticket at the stadium box office, but for popular games it’s necessary to buy tickets in advance. Tickets can be purchased for face value on Real Madrid’s website, but many other ticket sites charge a premium. The cheapest ticket on those sites was €63 for the same €40 seat.

Every Sunday, El Rastro market fills the streets south of Plaza Mayor in the La Latina section of the city. Vendors sell everything— artwork, clothing, leather goods, knick-knacks, home décor, CDs, etc. The market winds its way through many, many streets and the crowd can be difficult to negotiate at times. It’s a pickpocket’s dream, so definitely keep a hand on your wallet. The market is a great way to get a good, local feel for the city.

El Museo del Prado is a world-class art museum, on par with the Metropolitan, the Louvre, and the Rijksmuseum. To avoid long lines, go early in the day or purchase tickets in advance on the museum’s website. It costs €8 for entrance to the permanent collection. Diego Velázquez and Francisco Goya are the two most well known and well represented artists in El Prado. Many of their most famous works are here, including Las Meniñas and The Third of May. There are many incredible paintings in El Prado, especially portraits, and it’s manageable enough to get through the whole museum in a few hours. Some lesser-known works that really caught my attention include:

• Jusepe de Ribera’s portraits of the Apostles, especially St. Peter and St. Bartholomew. Both saints are easily recognizable, depicted by Ribera holding the symbols traditionally associated with each— St. Peter holding the keys to Heaven and St. Bartholomew holding the knife that skinned him alive.
• Albrecht Dürer’s fully restored Adam and Eve is wonderful. The accompanying display, explaining details of the restoration, is also quite interesting.
• El Greco has an entire room dedicated to some of his very large and impressive paintings.

Across the street from El Prado is El Museo de Arte Thyssen-Bornemisza, a smaller, but no less impressive museum. Arranged chronologically, the collection begins on the second floor with “Italian Primitives” and continues down to the first floor where it ends with 20^th Century work. Though comprising only one room, I found German Expressionist paintings by Otto Dix, George Grosz, and Max Beckman to be the most interesting. Painted during the Weimar Republic between World War I and World War II, these works contain really dark images and themes.

Basilica de San Francisco el Grande is another venue to see great artwork. It’s home to paintings by Velázquez, Zurbarán, and Goya, and definitely worth the €3 admission fee. I arrived late in the afternoon, just as a tour was beginning. The guide encouraged me to join the group even though I told him I only understood a little Spanish. He did his best to make sure I got at least some of what he was saying, including throwing in some English from time to time.

The Palacio Real was interesting from the standpoint that I had never been inside a palace. It’s widely considered to be the third most spectacular… grand… ostentatious (choose your adjective) in all of Europe, behind Versailles in France and Schönbrunn in Austria. I didn’t think it was worth the €10 entry fee, but then again I didn’t see everything there was to see. I didn’t realize there was an Armory exhibit through another entrance, so I only saw the apartments. If you’ve seen either of the other two palaces I’ve mentioned, then maybe I’d skip this one, unless you’re a big palace aficionado.

Likewise, I didn’t think €6 admission to the Almudena Cathedral museum (right next door to the palace) was worth it. However, the view from the top, only accessible through the museum, is gorgeous. The cathedral itself was closed due to construction, so I don’t know if there’s an entrance fee.

Plaza Mayor and Plaza del Sol are both spectacular places to sit and people-watch. I spent most evenings in one or the other enjoying various performers— the guy making giant bubbles is a crowd favorite, especially amongst kids, but what caught my attention was the beauty and grace of the Flamenco dancer. Remember, these people are working for tips, so if you enjoy what they’re doing, and especially if you take a picture, tip them!

The food in Madrid is spectacular! The best, by far, was Casa Toni— SO unbelievably good I went back two more times. I had read they’re famous for gazpacho, but I was on a mission to be adventurous. I was all about trying food I hadn’t had before, so my first dish at Casa Toni was sweetbreads sautéed with herbs— sweetbreads are thymus glands, in this case, from lamb. I know, it sounds weird, possibly even gross, but it was one of the best things I’ve eaten in my life! It looks like chicken, but it’s juicier and has a lot more flavor. It was so delicious I had to go back the next day for sautéed kidneys, which were good, but not nearly as tasty as the sweetbreads. For those not interested in eating animal organs, the calamari and patatas bravas are really good too! They also do fried pigs’ ears, but I had already tried them down the street at Oreja de Jaime. They’re not particularly appetizing— like fattier bacon with a crunch (from the cartilage), but I ate them because as I said, I was determined to be adventurous.

Continuing on that theme, I went to Casa del Abuelo, a stone’s throw from Casa Toni and Oreja de Jaime. They do shrimp and langostinos. Shrimp with garlic and butter is a safe choice, but if you’re a bit more daring, they grill whole shrimp (heads & all). It’s customary to suck the juices out of the head before eating the body— it’s kind of briny, and actually pretty tasty.

Jamón Iberico is the jamón to have in Madrid. Most places offer a “ración” (serving) for around €14-16, but Alhambra has half raciónes for €8. A half ración is enough for one person, and the price is a lot more reasonable too. It’s cured ham, very much like prosciutto, and just as tasty. The fat literally melts in your mouth, which may or may not sound appetizing, but it’s so good!

Additionally, Mercado San Miguel offers great food. It’s kind of trendy, crowded on the weekends, and slightly pricier than most places, but the delicious food and excellent variety are worth it!

Madrid can be an often-overlooked travel destination; I didn’t get there until my sixth trip to Europe (and second to Spain)— I’m so glad I finally did! In addition to all there is to do and see within Madrid itself, it’s a terrific hub for day trips to outlying areas. If you want a truly “Spanish” experience, Madrid cannot be ignored!

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Barcelona is probably the greatest place I have ever been. I realize there’s a tendency to have the fondest recollections of the most recent place you’ve visited, but there’s more to it than just that. While I have wonderful memories of most of the places I’ve traveled to, very few, if any, seem like somewhere I could live for a long period of time. In every aspect— food, culture, aesthetics, climate, etc.— Barcelona is extremely welcoming and immediately comfortable.

Barcelona and the Catalunya region have a distinct culture separate from the rest of Spain; people here are Catalonian first and Spanish second. Some Catalonians even want independence from Spain— we walked through a rally for sovereignty while we were there. Interestingly enough though, when Spain won the World Cup a few days later, everyone was “Spanish.” While they may rally for independence, I got the impression it’s mostly a show of solidarity. Realistically, I think they know that they’re better off remaining part of Spain; they just want to preserve their distinct heritage and customs, and rightly so. Franco tried to eradicate Catalan culture, and apparently there is still a lot of resentment amongst Catalonians.

Barcelona is arguably the best food city in the world, but a white tablecloth dinner isn’t necessary to have wonderful food. Definitely have tapas; they are quintessentially Spanish. The small size and incredible variety encourage sampling. Most places have tapas right on top of the bar, so go from place to place and take a look at what they’re offering— be adventurous and try something out of your comfort zone.

Some tapas places offer tables and waiter service. El Xampanyet (Montcada, 22) is one of the best— recommended by both Time Out and Top 10. They are known for their champagne, though we opted to have beer. This place is packed and it can be difficult to find a table, but the wait staff is very good at helping you find a seat; we lucked out and were seated quickly. Simply order “tapas” and the waiter will bring over a variety. We had a plate of cured meats, a potato omelet, a cheese plate, tomato and olive oil rubbed bread, and jamón on bread. Everything was excellent. It seemed like a family-run place, which is nice; the waitresses were definitely sisters, and the men behind the bar appeared to be their father and grandfather.

Tapaç 24 was another place that was highly recommended. We got a seat at the bar and waited for someone behind the counter to acknowledge us— and waited, and waited. I am used to the European dining experience being more laid back, and I like that just fine, but this was ridiculous. While the woman behind the counter fiddled with the register and receipts we waited without even a “we’ll be right with you.” Finally we got a couple of beers and an appetizer, which was mediocre. Maybe we caught them at a bad time, it seemed like the lunch rush had just ended or maybe they were changing shifts, but with so many other places to eat in Barcelona, I wouldn’t bother going back to this place.

One of the best meals I have ever eaten was at Cal Pep (www.calpep.com). There is always a line at Cal Pep, but it’s worth every minute of your wait! There’s counter seating and as you wait behind the diners, you see and smell the wonderfulness that’s being made right in front of you. The waiters, cooks, and head chef/owner all negotiate the small space behind the counter with great skill and efficiency. All the food is fresh— some of the seafood was still moving on ice behind the counter. Once seated, the waiter brings your food as it’s ready— there’s no menu, and what you get is different from the person sitting next to you. There may be a dish put in front of you that seems odd or unappetizing, but eat it! It may be out of your comfort zone, but it will be one of the best things you ever had. We ate:

• Bread smeared with tomato and olive oil
• Salt crusted, fried jalapeños
• Breaded and fried anchovies mixed with a fried egg (even though I like anchovies this seemed odd to me, but was amazing!)
• Clams in white wine and pimento sauce
• Calamari (not breaded) sautéed with butter and veggies
• Sautéed razor clams
• Sautéed merluzzo (white fish) with fried potato and grilled tomato

The staff and owner at Cal Pep are very friendly and will let you know if you’re eating something the wrong way. They told us to take the clams by the shell, scoop the broth, and slurp the whole thing down. The owner instructed one man to eat the heads on the shrimp, proclaiming that when in the Mediterranean, you eat the Mediterranean way, not the way you eat at home. That may sound a bit intimidating, but they are very nice about it all! Cal Pep is an absolute must if you are going to Barcelona!

La Boqueria, right off of Las Ramblas, is another must for food lovers. This market has a variety of food stalls; there’s wide selection to choose from and it’s all fresh and local. Wander around and sample whatever catches your eye. At Puja Mar, I had bacala, breaded and fried cod balls (who knew cod had balls so big?), which were very tasty. At Narisc Nineta, I had fried calamari and stuffed, fried mussels; the calamari was great, but I was not a fan of the stuffing in the mussels. Bar Pinotxo serves tapas and is probably the most famous place in La Boqueria, but it can be difficult to get a seat.

One of my most memorable meals had more to do with the “view” than the nondescript café where I ate. While eating breakfast at the café across from our hotel, two naked gentlemen were strolling through the plaza— apparently “sausage” was on the menu. One of these distinguished gentlemen had a tattoo of a face strategically placed so that his penis was the nose. Yes, very ingenious and quite memorable.

Barcelona is noted for its unique Art Nouveau architecture. The Spanish Art Nouveau architects were called Modernistas, and the most famous of this group is Antoni Gaudí. Gaudí built various privately commissioned homes throughout Barcelona, and some offer tours. The most notably are Casa Batlló and Casa Milá, both located on Passeig de Grácia. For me, the highlight of Casa Milá was the sculptured chimneys on the rooftop— they look like knights’ helmets. Casa Batlló is more expensive to get into (€17.50 as opposed to €11), but the interior tour is much more extensive.

While Gaudí’s houses are interesting, his unfinished masterpiece is La Sagrada Familia (www.sagradafamilia.org). Construction began on this cathedral in 1882, and is not expected to be complete until around 2030. Money for the project comes solely from donations, and entrance fees help keep construction moving (donations may also be made online). The central nave was enclosed in 2010, and two of the three façades have been completed as well. The Nativity façade was built under Gaudí’s direction, but the Passion façade, on the opposite side, is distinctly different with angular, modern sculptures. When finished, the cathedral will have a total of eighteen towers, though to date only eight have been completed. The style is an Art Nouveau interpretation of Gothic, meaning that it’s Gothic in its structure, but the forms are organic. For example, the columns in the nave that support the roof are thick at the bottom and branch out like trees toward the ceiling. The ceiling itself has sculptural elements resembling a forest canopy. Gaudí’s workshop is on display in the crypt beneath the church and contains many models, drawings, etc. The whole experience is amazing, and I will be very excited to go back one day and see the cathedral once it’s finished.

Park Güell, another Gaudí vision, is located outside of town a bit— it’s accessible by the number 24 city bus, which can be picked up from Plaza Cataluña. The park was commissioned by Eusebi Güell as part of a plan for a housing development. The development ultimately failed, and the park is all that is left. Its unique and beautiful structures make it unlike any other park. The longest bench in the world, covered with broken tile, looks like it could not possibly be comfortable, but it was ergonomically designed to provide support and comfort. The Room of One Hundred Columns, originally designed to be a market place, provides respite from the blazing summer sun. There are many other Gaudí sculptures and design elements to see, but in summer, it’s best to go early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the scorching summer heat.

There is much to see and do in Barcelona. In addition to what I’ve mentioned, there’s the Barcelona Cathedral, the Church of Santa Maria del Mar, Roman ruins, the Picasso Museum, the National Museum of Art of Cataluña, the Palace of Catalan Music, and the list goes on and on. You could easily spend two weeks, a month, or the rest of your life in Barcelona!

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Bordeaux was not on our original trip itinerary, but the train ride from Bruges to Barcelona was so long that we decided to stop somewhere along the way. We wanted a small city that could be seen in a day, and Bordeaux seemed ideal. Wine tasting also sounded like a nice break from all the beer in Amsterdam and Bruges.

Bordeaux is definitely a beautiful little city, though some parts still retain the feel of a sketchy port town. However, getting to and from Bordeaux was such a hassle that a one-day visit was not worth the effort it took to get there; we had to change trains in Brussels, Paris, and St. Pierre des Corps, and leaving was even worse. The woman who booked our outbound seats jerked us around— first telling us there were no seats, and then sending us on a route that included five transfers; we also ended up stranded in Narbonne for five hours because of a track fire.

I’m not saying Bordeaux is not worth a visit, but don’t try to squeeze it in— spend a few days. There are daily wine tours to vineyards located outside of town; they cost about €100 per person and include two or three wineries plus lunch. The benefit is having a driver, so you don’t need to worry about where you’re going or how much you had to drink. If you’re interested in visiting wineries, this is the best option.

Because we were only in Bordeaux for a day, we decided to do our wine tasting at Bar a Vin (baravin.bordeaux.com), where most glasses of local wine were around €2 or €3. The Maison du Vin and the Bordeaux Wine Counsel operate Bar a Vin— they provide extensive information about the wine industry in Bordeaux, including tours. As you can imagine, regional varietals are well represented; a stop at Bar a Vin is a good precursor to a winery tour.

We had lunch at O de L’Ha (www.odelha.fr). This tiny little restaurant packed a whole lot of flavor. The modern decor contrasts nicely with old wooden doors, stained glass windows, and rough-hewn stonewalls.  We weren’t sure what we were going to get, but we had a feeling that it was going to be good. The waiter brought over some olives, and a small tasting of gazpacho while we looked over the menu— that’s when we knew we were in for a treat. We had mussels cooked with scallions and parsley in white wine that rivaled those in Bruges— fresh and delicious. The thick-cut fries were crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Ravioli topped with a mushroom sauce, fresh basil, tomato, and onion was fantastic. All the food was fresh and tasty, and the wine was, of course, spectacular too. I highly recommend this place! Don’t let their odd website dissuade you.

Dinner at L’Ombriere was average, which, for French food is still pretty damn good. The escargot was basic, solid.  Then again, you can cook an old shoe with butter, garlic, and basil and it’d taste pretty good. We both had the basic French staple of steak and fries— I ordered mine medium and got medium-well, and my friend ordered medium rare and got rare, but it was pretty good anyway. The profiteroles for dessert were also pretty standard. In my experience, French food is like French wine in that you really can’t go wrong. I neither recommend nor advise against going to L’Ombriere, it’s average.

As for sightseeing, the St. Andre Cathedral dates to 1096, but most of the original construction is gone, replaced in the 13^th and 14^th Centuries. The building shows its age, and looks like a hodgepodge of repair work. Still, it is quite beautiful and full of unique character. Newer buttresses, added over the centuries to shore up the structure, have taken away from some of the symmetry that most cathedrals have. St. Andre seems bigger from the inside because the nave has no columns, so the tall ceilings and wide-open spaces have a greater impact on the viewer. The chapels surrounding the altar contain beautiful stained glass windows and the walls are decorated in deep, rich colors and intricate designs.

We also walked along Rue Sainte-Catherine, Bordeaux’s main shopping drag. As can be expected in any major European city, the numerous stores make this pedestrian-only thoroughfare pretty congested.

As we walked around, we discovered Bordeaux is home to either the laziest or most ingenious street musician in the world: sitting next to an open guitar case with a sign requesting donations, a TV played a video of him performing. The musician himself was nowhere to be seen, but I imagine he was keeping a close eye on his donations while he sipped wine amidst the shady, cool refuge of a nearby café.

The 18^th Century architecture of La Place de la Bourse is magnificent. Though this architectural style is often associated with Paris, it originated in Bordeaux. The large fountains in the middle of the plaza make it an ideal spot to sit and people watch.

Across from La Place de la Bourse, the Pont de Pierre spans the Garonne River. Though this bridge was built on Napoleon’s orders, it was constructed after his reign. Between each brick archway is a relief sculpture honoring Napoleon and the city of Bordeaux.

In addition, there are Roman ruins, a museum of fine arts, and many other plazas and basilicas to visit in Bordeaux. Overall, I thought the people in Paris were a little nicer and a little quicker to use English when they realized I didn’t speak much French.  However, this could be due to the fact that Bordeaux doesn’t get as much foreign tourism.  In fact, there were few English-speaking tourists as far as I could tell, so it definitely helps to speak a bit of French. All in all, Bordeaux is a good destination, even if difficult to get to and from. I would recommend visiting Bordeaux only if you are going to stay for a few days and perhaps do a wine tour or two. Also, book your hotel in advance because there aren’t many reasonably priced rooms available in good locations at the last minute.

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If Heaven is anything like Bruges, I’ll start repenting my heathen ways immediately! It’s a beer utopia— a wonderland of strong, flavorful, light and dark beers. Many are even brewed by monks, so each sip is a religious experience. Okay, I’m overstating it a bit, but the beer is great, the variety is like nothing I’ve ever seen, and the city itself is a medieval time capsule.

Stepping off the bus from the train station is like stepping back in time. We arrived at dusk, which lent an eerie quality to this medieval town. We quickly found our hotel, a former monastery, and checked in. As we climbed the dimly lit stairs and walked down the hallway bathed in the fading light of day, it occurred to me that if I were ever to stay in a haunted residence, this place would likely be it; every floorboard and hinge creaked, and as each falling footstep echoed, I became a bit more unsettled. Luckily, the only thing that haunted us was a lack of air conditioning.

We dropped off our bags and went to get a bite to eat. The place we chose lent credence to the creepy, ghost-like feel of the city. The Gran Kaffee de Passage (www.passagebruges.com) serves up Belgian cuisine and beers in an ornately decorated setting. The dark wood walls of the main room, lit almost exclusively by candle, are decorated with stuffed animal heads and tapestries. There are quaint tables for small groups, while the backroom has a long dining table beneath an enormous wrought-iron chandelier. Flemish stew is the house specialty, and we both indulged in this rich and meaty dish. A dark Leffe beer is the perfect compliment to the stew since it’s also one of the ingredients. The obligatory baked potato and salad that accompanied the meal were unnecessary; the main attractions are the stew, the beer, and the ambiance.

I awoke the next morning to find the city’s peculiar, ghostly character replaced by inviting cobblestone streets, beautiful canals, and stone edifices that silently watched over all. I couldn’t wait to get out, roam, and discover what the city hid in it’s out of the way alleys and side streets. It’s nearly impossible to get lost in Bruges, but in small towns like this, I love to put my map in my back pocket, wander aimlessly, and try.

My first stop was the Church of Our Lady, notable for containing the only Michelangelo statue outside of Italy. The small sculpture is a less remarkable piece, but being a Michelangelo, it’s worth seeing. The cool, damp air inside the church can be a welcome reprieve from the heat of the summer sun, but the musty, basement-like smell is the trade-off. Choir music sets a serene and meditative tone, inviting you to sit for a while, reflect, and contemplate the beauty of the setting. Don’t miss the wood-carved, Rococo pulpit and paintings by Carravagio and Van Dyke.

I also visited the Basilica of the Holy Blood, which houses a vial said to contain the blood of Jesus Christ. During certain hours, the vial is on display in a side chapel and can be venerated by worshipers. I have no idea how Christ’s blood could have been preserved for two thousand years, or how it made its way to Bruges of all places, but I guess that’s part of having faith— my cynicism makes having faith difficult.  I haven’t been to church in a long time, but I was quite moved as I watched people partake in this unique ritual of veneration.

Before I left for Bruges, I researched places to drink local beer; places with a lot of variety and some that brew their own. We’ll start with the self-proclaimed “king of beers,” Cambrinus (www.cambrinus.eu). I walked in and immediately felt right at home. If I lived in Bruges, this would be my “local.” Without a doubt! In addition to the eight beers on tap, they offer another 400 in bottles. Two of the eight on tap are brewed in-house, a blond and a dark. The dark version has nice subtle flavor and is not at all heavy. Although I generally prefer darker beers, the blond is just as good, with a faint sweetness, which is not overpowering or fruity. A word of caution that goes for anyplace in Belgium: the beers are strong, be careful! I caught a little buzz after only two.

Staminee de Garre is a difficult little place to find. It’s near the main square, but don’t confuse it with de Carré, which is right on the main square. Staminee de Garre is located down a small alley off of Breidelstraat. Great beer (they also brew their own) in a little, old bar— wood-beam ceilings, brick walls, and narrow, steep stairs that the waitresses negotiate with great skill. This place felt like old-world Bruges; stop in for a beer and see for yourself.

De Halve Maan Brewery (www.halvemaan.be) is the only brewery still located inside the town of Bruges. Their beers, Bruges Zot blond and dark, are sold all over town, but it’s definitely worth a visit to the brewery to taste them at their source. They describe their beers as:

Blond— “Fruity palate and spicy aroma of hops… dry, slightly bitter… hints of citrus.”

Dark— “Ruby red-brown color… rich aroma composed of bitter notes… special malt and Tcheque Saaz hops from Zatec.”

They also serve lunch, but we didn’t eat there.

Around the corner from De Halve Maan is the Béguinage— an enclosed community consisting of a park-like square surrounded by a collection of quaint buildings. Once used by the Beguines, an informal sisterhood of the Roman Catholic Church, Benedictine Sisters now live here. You may enter these beautiful grounds and walk around during designated times in the morning and afternoon. It is an incredibly serene and calming place, and definitely worth checking out.

I am ashamed to say that I did not eat any chocolate while I was in Belgium, although I did try.  I arrived at Dumon Chocolatier (www.chocolatierdumon.be) just after they closed on my last night in town, so I was unable to sample this Belgium favorite.  I was disappointed, though chocolate was lower on my “to do” list than beer or mussels.

We ate the quintessential Belgian meal of beer and mussels at Matinee, where one order of mussels (€19) was enough for two of us to share. These were some of the freshest, best mussels I’ve ever had.

We also had waffles, another popular Belgian specialty— moist on the inside, crispy and golden on the outside. Topped with powdered sugar and fruit, they tasted just like fried dough.

There were two places I wanted to try for beer, but both were closed:

• ‘t Bruges Beertje (www.brugsbeertje.be), a pub, was closed for vacation.
• Café Vlissinghe (www.cafevlissinghe.be), established in 1515, is, or perhaps was, the oldest pub in Bruges. On the day we visited, the pub was closed. We couldn’t determine if it was closed permanently or just for renovations. Hopefully, it was the latter.

All in all, Bruges was more than I expected or could have asked for, and definitely a place I’d like to return to. The small town feel, friendly people, good food, great beer and picturesque beauty made it an absolutely wonderful place to visit. Seeing Bruges has sparked my interest in the many other small Belgium towns. Although Belgium seems like an often-overlooked destination compared to the rest of Europe, Bruges certainly had its share of tourism.  However, it seemed to lack the craziness of large European cities despite having the beauty, history, and culture one would expect of a top tourist spot— I love it for that very reason.

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When you say the name “Amsterdam,” the response is Pavlovian: pot and prostitutes. Before leaving, I received a veritable laundry list of “the best” coffeeshops from friends who have been. One of my students who has Dutch ancestry and has been there many times warned me not to go into coffeeshops because “they’re for drugs.” Do people go to Amsterdam for anything else? I did, and I was determined to discover what else the original “Sin City” had to offer.

I’ve heard that Amsterdam is the most culturally diverse city in the world. Although I’ve done some searching, I haven’t been able to discover any evidence to back that claim. Once you arrive, however, you quickly realize that if it’s not the most diverse, it certainly is a contender. In fact, there’s so much cultural variety that it can be difficult to find much that’s traditionally Dutch, though I did manage to find a few absolute gems.

We’ll start where my heart lies: beer. There’s the Heineken Experience brewery tour and tasting. However, I want flavor when I drink beer, and it took little more than a Google search for me to find two great little breweries right in the heart of Amsterdam.

We started at Brouwerij de Prael (www.deprael.nl), in the center of Amsterdam on Warmoesstraat, just north of Dam Square. We were looking for a place to watch the Netherlands World Cup match against Brazil, and since I’d wanted to try this place, we decided there was no time like the present. It was the perfect place to watch the game, not crazy or packed. We got seats, the beers were €2 for a small (20 ml) glass, and they brought hors d’oeuvers around for everyone. The owners were sitting right in front of us and we quickly realized most of the people there knew each other. Regardless, they were extremely friendly to outsiders— though it didn’t hurt that we rooted for the Netherlands. The beer was outstanding! Dutch beer is similar to Belgian beer, strong and flavorful. Brouwerij de Prael names all their beers after Dutch pop singers from the ‘60’s and ‘70’s, so you can have a glass of Heintje, Willeke, Nelis, Johnny, or André. Everyone got a round on the house when the final whistle blew. It was so much fun to be with Dutch fans as they watched their national team beat one of the world’s best. I highly recommend this place if you’re going to Amsterdam— the beer is great and the people are absolutely terrific!

The other Brewery is called Brouwerij ‘t IJ. It’s a little farther outside of town, but easily accessible by tram (Hoogte Kadijk stop on the #10 line). Public transportation in Amsterdam is very user friendly and you can buy tickets right on the tram. We arrived at the brewery around 2pm (about an hour before they opened) and by 3pm a crowd had gathered. Any place that’s open for seven hours every day and still has a horde of people waiting to get in has got to be good. Once the initial line died down there was very little wait to get a beer. The beers were strong and very flavorful with light and dark options— again, very Belgian-like. The following styles are brewed year round and are available on tap: Pilsner (Plzen), White (Witt), Double Trappist-Style (Natte), Triple Trappist-Style (Zatte), and a dark beer (Struis)— each an excellent representative of it’s particular style.

Before we went to Brouwerij ‘t IJ, we spent the morning at the Rijksmuseum (www.rijksmuseum.nl). The museum is currently undergoing renovation, so the permanent exhibit was limited compared to normal, but the €12.50 admission fee was well worth it— it’s a “must see” museum in Europe. The Dutch Masters (not a pot reference) are obviously well represented— Rembrandt and Vermeer stand out among them. Portraits and landscapes dominate the subject matter, with portraits being far more interesting (in my humble opinion). The floor plan takes you from room to room without having to double back and culminates with Rembrandt’s Night Watch— the most famous piece in the museum and Rembrandt’s masterpiece. As it should be, the Rijksmuseum does not allow photography— the experience must be savored instead of captured. The building itself is also quite spectacular, from what little I saw poking through the scaffolding.

I’d say the place to get a drink on a nice day in Amsterdam is Café de Jaren (www.cafedejaren.nl). Lofty ceilings, large windows, and wide-open spaces compliment the modern décor. The best seat in the house is outside, next to the canal.  Sit in the sunshine or under an umbrella and watch the ducks and boaters cruise by, but beware, the Speedo is still alive and well in Europe. The outdoor seating fills up fast with little turnover, so get there early or grab a table by an open window. The beer menu is pretty standard for Amsterdam bars— nothing noteworthy, but not bad either. This place is more about ambiance than anything else.

My food experiences were pretty much all worthwhile. The first night we ate at Aneka Rasa Indonesian restaurant (on Warmoesstraat just north of Dam Square). I’ve read mixed reviews, though my experience was excellent— good food, friendly and attentive service, and reasonably priced. We had lamb satay, spring rolls, and a mixture of lamb, egg, and scallions wrapped in flaky pastry and deep-fried— all solid choices.

We followed that up the next night at Tasty Asia, which may have been a chain, but you couldn’t tell from the quality and flavor of the food. It had been a long day and most places were packed with drunken people celebrating Oranje’s big win over Brazil. We just wanted a quiet place to eat, but ended up being pleasantly surprised by the food. I got fried noodles with pork in a spicy Kong Po sauce for about €6— large portions, good quality, and lots of flavor for a good price. That and a couple of extra large beers set me straight and put a bow on my day.

The third night we had Malaysian food at a place called WAU, located on Zeedjik. I was excited because I had never had Malaysian food, and while that may be like coming to New York for Chinese or Sushi, I really didn’t care. We had meat satay, which consisted of chicken, lamb, goat, and beef skewered and grilled. The chicken was a little overcooked and dry but the rest of the meat was excellent and very tasty. The satay came with a spicy peanut sauce that was neither necessary nor very good (it tasted like spicy peanut butter). We followed up with mussels in an extra-spicy sauce that was flavorful with just the right amount of heat. The meal was very enjoyable, even if the tables were a little too close together.

Döner is as good a late-night drunk food as I’ve had anywhere! There’s pizza in NYC and Döner in Europe— SO freakin’ good! Shaved mystery mean in a pita with a cole-slaw-like substance (minus the mayo), tahini sauce, and some spicy sauce (optional) that was just as tasty as can be.

We had breakfast the first day at a place called Lanskroon (www.lanskroon.nl). It’s a small Dutch bakery and café frequented by locals. I had a tasty and wonderfully flaky ham and cheese croissant, a latté, and fresh-squeezed orange juice. The second day we ate breakfast at Kwekkeboom in the shopping section near Rembrandtplein. Like the name “Quickie-boom” might imply, it did the trick, but wasn’t very satisfying— it wasn’t actually bad, it was just touristy, more expensive, and not as good as Lanskroon. The last day we sat outside by a canal and ate breakfast at the Pancake Bakery (www.pancake.nl). This isn’t your typical American pancake, and it’s difficult to describe—not fluffy, more egg-like, but not like an omelet; it wasn’t sweet, so you could add anything to it— such as ham and cheese or banana and Nutella (I had the latter).

Some sights to see:

• Westerkerk is much more impressive from the outside than from the inside. Its spire, soaring above the canals, is an often-depicted sight in Amsterdam. It’s free to get in, so you might as well, but there’s nothing but an enormous organ to see.
• Oudekerk costs €5 to get in, but it’s worth it for the stained glass windows and beautiful woodwork. The bright and beautiful windows look like Renaissance paintings with vibrant color and perfect perspective.

The Anne Frank House is the saddest place I have ever been in my life. I had to fight back tears several times as I walked through the rooms where the Frank family and their friends hid out for over two years. Blackout curtains have been kept in place so visitors get an idea of what everyday life was like without sunshine. You get a sense of the frustration of being cooped up with no privacy, the longing to be able to lead a normal life, and the constant fear of discovery— but whatever sense you get can’t even come close to what they must have felt. Otto Frank (Anne’s father) was the only person, of the eight living in the annex, to survive the concentration camps. Anne died of typhus at Bergen-Belsen in 1945, just one month before it was liberated. I don’t know how Otto Frank went on after that, though maybe dedicating his life to Anne’s diary, the museum in the annex, and the memory of his family and friends gave him a purpose and resolve. On a practical note, there’s an enormous line to get into the museum all day long, so either buy tickets online in advance or avoid peak hours. The Anne Frank House is something that everyone really should see.

Amsterdam is a city rich in history and culture, witness to economic boom and the atrocities of war. The architecture of the canal houses and the canals themselves are beautiful and serene. There’s a tradition of incredible fine art and an influx of culinary delights from around the world. Oh yeah, it’s also legal to smoke pot and solicit prostitutes, but if that’s all you’re seeing, you’re not seeing Amsterdam!

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