"travel leaves a mark"

When you say the name “Amsterdam,” the response is Pavlovian: pot and prostitutes. Before leaving, I received a veritable laundry list of “the best” coffeeshops from friends who have visited there. One of my students who has Dutch ancestry and has been there many times warned me not to go into coffeeshops because “they’re for drugs.” Do people go to Amsterdam for anything else? I did, and I was determined to discover what else the original “Sin City” had to offer.

I’ve heard that Amsterdam is the most culturally diverse city in the world. Although I’ve done some searching, I haven’t been able to discover any research to back that claim. Once you arrive, however, you quickly realize that if it’s not the most diverse, it certainly is a contender. In fact, it’s so diverse that it can be difficult to find much that is traditionally Dutch, though I did manage to find a few absolute gems.

We’ll start where my heart lies: beer. You can, of course, go to the Heineken Experience, take the brewery tour and have a tasting if you’re interested in the Dutch version of Budweiser. However, I want flavor when I drink beer, and it took little more than a Google search for me to find two great little breweries right in the heart of Amsterdam making and serving up great local beer.

We started at Brouwerij de Prael (www.deprael.nl), in the center of Amsterdam on Warmoesstraat, just north of Dam Square. We were actually looking for a place to watch the Netherlands World Cup match against Brazil. Since I’d wanted to try this place, we decided there was no time like the present. It was exactly the type of place I was looking for to watch the game, not crazy or packed; we got a seat, the beers were €2 for a small (20 ml) glass, and they brought hors d’oeuvers around for everyone. The owners were sitting right in front of us and you quickly got the impression that most of the people there knew each other. Regardless, they were extremely friendly to outsiders— though it didn’t hurt that we were rooting for the Netherlands. The beer was outstanding. I really didn’t know much about Dutch beer other than Heineken and Amstel, but that’s like summing up American beer with Budweiser and Miller. Dutch beer is similar to Belgian beer, strong and flavorful. Brouwerij de Prael names all their beers after Dutch pop singers from the ‘60’s and ‘70’s, so you can have a glass of Heintje, Willeke, Nelis, Johnny, or André. It was so much fun to be a part of this day with Dutch fans and to witness their enthusiasm for their national team as they beat one of the world’s best. Everyone got a round on the house when the final whistle blew and the cheering calmed a bit. I highly recommend this place if you’re going to Amsterdam— the beer is great and the people are absolutely terrific!

The other Brewery is called Brouwerij ‘t IJ. “Brouwerij” is obviously Dutch for “Brewery,” but the rest of it? You got me! This place is a little farther outside of town, but easily accessible by tram (Hoogte Kadijk stop on the #10 line). Public transportation in Amsterdam is very user friendly and you can buy tickets right on the tram. You need to validate your ticket when you get on and off, and you can transfer to another line within an hour. We arrived at the brewery around 2pm (about an hour before they opened) and by 3pm there was a group of people waiting to get in, which was a positive sign. There are tables inside and out, and since it looked like rain, we opted for inside. Once the initial line died down there was very little wait to get a beer. The beers were strong and very flavorful with light and dark options— again, very Belgian-like. The styles they brew year round and have on tap are: Pilsner (Plzen), White (Witt), Double Trappist-Style (Natte), Triple Trappist-Style (Zatte), and a dark beer (Struis). Each is excellent and a fine representative of it’s particular style. Any place that’s open for seven hours every day and still has a crowd of people waiting for it to open has got to be good— this place is great!

Before we went to Brouwerij ‘t IJ, we spent the morning at the Rijksmuseum (www.rijksmuseum.nl). The museum is currently undergoing renovation, so the permanent exhibit was limited compared to normal, but €12.50 to get in was well worth it— I’d say it’s a “must see” museum in Europe. The Dutch Masters (not a pot reference) are obviously well represented— Rembrandt and Vermeer stand out among them. Portraits and landscapes dominate the subject matter, with portraits being far more interesting (in my humble opinion). The floor plan takes you from room to room without having to double back and culminates with Rembrandt’s Night Watch— the Rijksmuseum’s Mona Lisa— the most famous piece in the museum and Rembrandt’s masterpiece. One of the greatest things about the Rijksmuseum is that there is no photography allowed— I love it! You actually have to pay attention to the painting on the wall and savor your experience rather than worry about taking a photo. The building itself is also quite spectacular, from what little I saw poking through the scaffolding.

I’d say the place to get a drink on a nice day in Amsterdam is Café de Jaren (www.cafedejaren.nl). The inside has a modern décor with lofty ceilings and wide-open spaces. There’s outdoor seating right on the canal where you can sit in the sunshine or under an umbrella and watch the ducks and boaters (some wearing a good ol’ banana-hammock— the Speedo is still alive and well in Europe) cruise by. The outdoor seating fills up fast with little turnover, so get there early or grab a table by the open windows for a similarly sun-drenched and cool-breezed drinking experience. The beer menu is pretty standard for Amsterdam bars— nothing noteworthy, but not bad either. This place is more about ambiance than anything else.

My food experiences were pretty much all worthwhile. The first night we ate at Aneka Rasa Indonesian restaurant (on Warmoesstraat just north of Dam Square). I’ve read mixed reviews, though the majority were positive, as was my experience— good food, friendly and attentive service, and reasonably priced. We had lamb satay, spring rolls, and a mixture of lamb, egg, and scallions wrapped in flaky pastry and deep friend— all solid choices.

We followed that up the next night with a place near our hotel called Tasty Asia, which I think may have been a chain, but you couldn’t tell from the quality and flavor of the food. This place is on Wagendtraar between Amstel and Amstelstraat. After a long day and everyplace packed with drunken people celebrating Oranje’s big win, we just wanted a quiet place to eat. I got fried noodles with pork in a spicy Kong Po sauce for about €6— large portions, good quality, and lots of flavor for a good price. That and a couple of extra large beers set me straight and put a bow on my day.

The third night we had Malaysian food at a place called WAU on Zeedjik. I was excited because I had never had Malaysian food— and while that may be like coming to New York for Chinese or Sushi, I really didn’t care. We had the meat satay, which consisted of chicken, lamb, goat, and beef skewered and grilled. The chicken was a little overcooked and dry but the rest of the meat was excellent and very tasty. The satay came with a spicy peanut sauce that was neither necessary nor very good (it tasted like spicy peanut butter). We followed up with mussels in an extra-spicy sauce that was flavorful with just the right amount of heat. This was a very enjoyable meal, even if the tables were a little too close together.

One of the best things I ate was a Döner kebab that I missed out on in Germany. This is as good a late-night drunk food as I’ve had anywhere! There’s pizza in NYC and Döner in Europe— SO freakin’ good! Shaved mystery mean in a pita with a cole-slaw-like substance (minus the mayo), tahini sauce, and some spicy sauce (optional) that was just as tasty as can be.

We had breakfast the first day at a place called Lanskroon (www.lanskroon.nl). It’s a small Dutch bakery and café frequented by locals. I had a wonderfully flaky and tasty ham and cheese croissant, a latté, and fresh-squeezed orange juice. The second day we ate breakfast at Kwekkeboom in the shopping section near Rembrandtplein. Like the name “Quickie-boom” implies, it did the trick, but wasn’t very satisfying— it wasn’t actually bad, it was just touristy, more expensive, and not as good as Lanskroon. The last day we sat outside by a canal and ate breakfast at the Pancake Bakery (www.pancake.nl). This isn’t your typical American pancake, and it’s difficult to describe—not fluffy, more egg-like, but not like an omelet; it wasn’t sweet, so you could add anything to it— such as ham and cheese or banana and Nutella (I had the latter).

Some sights to see:

• Westerkerk is much more impressive from the outside than from the inside. Its spire, soaring above the canals, is an often-depicted sight in Amsterdam. It’s free to get in, so you might as well, but there’s nothing but an enormous organ to see.
• Oudekerk costs €5 to get in, but it’s worth it for the stained glass windows and beautiful woodwork. The windows are bright and beautiful pictures that look like Renaissance paintings with their vibrant color and perfect perspective.

The Anne Frank House does not get put on a list with bullet-points. This was the saddest place I have ever been in my life and I had to fight back tears several times as I walked through the rooms where the Frank family and their friends hid out for over two years. Eventually, someone turned them in— they were found, arrested, and sent to concentration camps. To this day, however, no one knows who betrayed those hiding in the secret annex above Otto Frank’s office. Blackout curtains have been kept in place so you get an idea of what everyday life was like without sunlight. Anne’s pictures of theater stars she admired still hang on the walls of her room and quotes from her diary have been put up everywhere. You get a sense of the frustration of being cooped up with no privacy, the longing to be able to lead a normal life, and the constant fear of discovery— but whatever sense you get can’t even come close to what they must have felt. Otto Frank (Anne’s father) was the only person, of the eight living in the annex, to survive the concentration camps. Anne died (thinking her whole family had perished) just one month before her camp was liberated. I don’t know how Otto Frank could have gone on after that, though maybe dedicating his life to Anne’s diary, the museum in the annex, and the memory of his family and friends gave him a purpose and resolve. It’s been a long time since I read The Diary of Anne Frank— students at my school read it in 8th grade, I think I read it in high school, and I think it’s time I read it again. On a practical note, there’s an enormous line to get into the museum all day long, so either buy your tickets online in advance for a specific entry time or go very early or late. This is something that everyone really should see.

Amsterdam is a city rich in history and culture— witness to economic boom and the atrocities of war. The architecture of the canal houses and the canals themselves are beautiful and serene. There’s a tradition of incredible fine art and an influx of culinary delights from around the world. Oh yeah, it’s also legal to smoke pot and solicit prostitutes, but if that’s all you’re seeing, you’re not seeing Amsterdam!

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Perhaps the best word to describe Prague would be “indescribable.” Prague had been at the top of my list of places to visit for a very long time, despite my limited knowledge of the city. All I really knew was that it had managed to escape much of the devastation of WWII and subsequently experienced decades behind the iron curtain.  Likewise, I knew little about the Czech people besides what I read in Milan Kundera’s The Unbearable Lightness of Being. I had projections about Prague, and when I was given the opportunity to visit, I jumped at it.

Prior to my trip, I envisioned drinking good beer in a charming, gothic setting rich in history.  The reality of my experience in Prague went above and beyond all my expectations. The city itself is one of the most stunning I have ever seen, and the architecture of the spire-crowned buildings cannot compare to any other place I’ve ever been; photos can’t do justice to the feeling of being encircled by these incredible facades. You feel the city’s history in its architecture: from it glorious past as capital of the Holy Roman Empire under Charles IV to the 20^th Century communist reign (yes, there are a few communist-style buildings here and there, but mostly outside the city center).

Charles Bridge is one of the best-known tourist attractions in the city and, as such, is jam-packed with gawking tourists and vendors selling all kinds of souvenirs. The bridge crosses the Vltava River and connects the Old Town with the Lesser Quarter; it’s lined with thirty weather-stained statues of various saints. The most famous of these is John of Nepomuk, who was martyred in 1393 when he was thrown from the bridge into the river while wearing a full suit of armor… he did not float. The gothic-style bridge with its baroque statues is quite a site, as are the views it affords of both sides of the city. If you’ve already seen the bridge and need to cross the river during the day without being held up by tourists, then I would suggest taking the Mánes Bridge just to the North.

Some other great sights to see are:

• The Astronomical Clock is an amazing spectacle from the intricacies of the design down to the hourly show. Stand and stare with everyone else, because it is definitely worth it! The clock keeps track of the date, time, zodiac signs, moon phases, and the sun’s position in the sky, among other things.
• The Mucha Museum is a little known treasure in Prague. Chances are you’ve seen Mucha’s work even if you don’t know his name. The museum is small, but really worth seeing.
• Tour the Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral on the hill. St. Vitus is a wonderful example of a Gothic Cathedral, with gargoyles perched along the outside and stunning stained-glass windows throughout, including one by Mucha.  After checking out the castle and cathedral, walk through the Royal Gardens, where I had the unique opportunity of holding a Peregrine Falcon at a birds of prey exhibit.
• The Jewish Quarter with its various museums and memorials document and recall the Jewish struggle for survival during WWII.  The synagogue with thousands of names of victims printed on the walls is a particularly haunting reminder of a horrible period of time, and one that should be seen by all.
• I didn’t get to the Museum of Communism, but it seemed like it might be interesting, the advertisements were certainly entertaining (see photo below). There are certainly all kinds of Communist souvenirs for sale all over the city.

Our first night in Prague was spent at the Blue Light Bar, which we happened by on the way to our hotel. It’s your standard Czech dive bar with graffiti on the walls and names carved into the tables. This place was as local as you can get.  I don’t think I heard a word of English the whole time we were there, and that was the beauty of it. We drank for quite a while and it only cost us a few American dollars and my friend’s hat. The bartender liked it, and since she was cute (until she smiled), he let her borrow it with the agreement that we would return in a few nights to get it back. Well, something got lost in translation and he spent the rest of the trip looking for a new hat.

Our hotel, The Augustine, has a brewery bar in what used to be the cellar.  The low, arched ceilings create a wonderful, old-world ambiance. They make their own beer and the dark beer is a typical version of dark-roasted, malty goodness: nothing spectacular, but certainly solid. Even if you’re not staying at The Augustine, you should visit the bar and say hello to the bartender, Jaroslaw. He’s a really friendly guy who gave us some good recommendations for going out at night in Prague. He also relayed some wonderful philosophy to us: “The girls at these places are for one night, not for marrying.” We thanked him for clueing us in.

Most of the bars we went to were in Stare Mesto, the old town section of the city, just east of the town square on Dlouhá Street. One of the first places we checked out was Bombay Cocktail Bar. The wood beam ceilings and brick walls gave me a great first impression, but it turned out to be more of a club scene. The small dance floor, squeezed between two walls with full-length mirrors, was packed with high-school Spanish girls and their chaperones. There was quite an eclectic mix of nationalities represented, with plenty of Russian and Eastern Europeans too. It turned out to be alright (despite the dancing) and we had a good time. Around the corner is the M1 Lounge, which was about as Eurotrashy as it gets! This was not my kind of place… neon lights, thumping techno music, and pricey mixed drinks for the Sex and the City crowd. There were plenty of places to sit, but we didn’t stay very long. Across the street from Bombay was Harley’s. I knew this was my kind of place as soon as I walked in and descended the stairs into the dimly lit bar: there was 80’s metal on the stereo, beer taps made to look like motorcycle engines, and a low-key, unassuming feel.

Beers cost about 30 Czech crown ($1.50 U.S.) and are better than I expected; most are Pilsners.  Although I am normally not a fan of this style of beer, I found Czech Pilsners to have a bit more bite than a typical American Pilsner. There are also a few dark Czech beers, Kozlov being an excellent example.

During one of our first nights in Prague, we saw a classical music concert given by members of the Prague Royal Orchestra at St. George’s Basilica at Prague Castle. This is not the giant St. Vitus cathedral that dominates the Prague skyline, but a smaller basilica in the same courtyard. These musicians are world-class and, of course, were outstanding. The venue could not have been more perfect than this small, floodlit church made of stone. There are many classical concerts at many different venues each night in Prague, but I can’t imagine any being more beautiful than at St. George’s.

Ok, now for food. We ate at the Kolkovna Restaurant, which is on the corner of Kolkovně and Vězeňská Streets, across from the Spanish Synagogue. Good food, good beer and a traditional Czech atmosphere that “feels like Prague.”  Try the Goulash! We had it at a few places and, while each was a bit different in terms of the spices used and the texture of the dumplings, they were all really good. Prague is a city that seems to be in a bit of a culinary identity crisis… there are the old Czech dishes, but there is also a movement towards the more modern, like the cuisine we had at Barock Restaurant. It was excellent food with a trendy atmosphere, but more like something I’d expect in New York, Paris or London rather than Prague.

While Prague is a very touristy city, it’s possible to experience traditional Czech food, drink, and culture. The city affords opportunities for hectic sightseeing, or for relaxing at bars and cafés. The divide between what is authentically Czech and what is a show for tourists is probably not as black and white as it seems. If you are too hell-bent on being “authentic,” you stand a good chance of missing out on what the city has to offer. I think it’s important to try to experience the city for what it is right now, as compared to your idea of what it was or should be. As I said, I had expectations, but I was also open to everything the city had to offer, be it old, new, touristy, or traditional. Prague is an amazing place for what it was and what it is.

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I had heard many stories of rude, arrogant Parisians, and as a result I never really had any desire to visit Paris. In fact, when my friend told me that we’d be going as part of our two-week trip, not only was I unenthusiastic about it, I was apprehensive; I didn’t want to spend my time there feeling unwelcome and uncomfortable.

My experience turned out to be the complete opposite of what I had heard, and I left Paris thinking it was one of the most amazing places I had ever been! A little effort on the traveler’s part goes a long way with the locals you meet. What do I mean by that? For starters, learn how to say “hello,” “please,” and “thank you.” Any other phrases you learn will only help you have positive interactions. I also found it useful to know how to order food at a restaurant; these are good things to know in any country you visit, not just France.

So, Paris… I don’t think I have been to a more grandiose city in my life! From the palaces and avenues right down to apartment buildings on the outskirts, the city overwhelms you with its splendor. We stayed on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées right near the Arc de Triomphe. This is one of the most upscale sections of Paris. The Champs-Élysées is lined with beautiful trees and very exclusive stores that lead all the way down to the Place de la Concorde (the site of beheadings during the French Revolution). The Eiffel Tower is just across the Seine from where we stayed, and while we did go over to check it out one night, we didn’t go to the top. The lit-up Eiffel Tower at night, overlooking the city, is quite a sight and I certainly see why so many people are enamored with it.

We visited both the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay. I cannot stress enough that you should purchase your tickets in advance; it’s a little more expensive, but when you’re in a city for a short period of time, you don’t want to waste time standing in line (especially in the hot sun). The Louvre is way too big to cover in one day, so don’t even try; you’ll just lessen your experience. Have a plan and decide what areas interest you most. You want to see the Mona Lisa? So does everyone else, so expect a huge crowd of people filtering down the hall into the room where it hangs. What I don’t understand is all the people rushing past and ignoring other important works because they are hell-bent on seeing the Mona Lisa. Did I see it? Of course I did, but I didn’t skip anything on my way there! You don’t need to stop at every painting and have a mini art history lesson, but stop at the ones that stand out to you and maybe figure out why they attract you more than others. One thing that I could not stand were the people taking photos of paintings… Are you serious? If you want a picture, go buy a book that has a better reproduction than any photo you could ever take. Besides that, these people would barely even look at the actual painting. They would stand in front, take a picture, check their camera to see how it came out, and walk away. Why bother actually being in the museum? Go online, save yourself the money, and make the place a little less crowded for the rest of us that actually want to see the artwork!

The Musée d’Orsay had the same epidemic of photographers diminishing their experience though their cameras instead of enjoying the real thing. The Orsay is in an old train station, and the steel and glass structures along with the high ceiling and wide-open expanse make for a great place to view art. The space itself is as much a work of art as the work it houses.

You want to get local? Walk along the Promenade Plantée in the 12^th Arrondissement. This is an elevated walkway that used to be a rail path. It’s somewhat hidden, but take the Metro to Bastille and walk down the Rue de Lyon until it intersects with the Avenue Daumesnil; there you will find stairs that lead up to the path. It’s lined with beautiful trees, flowers, and canoodling couples. The bird’s eye view to the street below offers a unique vantage point of Parisian life. When you’ve walked along a bit, take the stairs back down and check out the artistic shops and studios that fill the archways underneath the Promenade.

What visit to Paris would be complete without a visit to the Cimetiere du Père Lachaise and Jim Morrison’s grave? Both the cemetery and Morrison’s grave are easy to find. Maps are available to locate the plethora of famous musicians, artists, writers, etc. that are buried here. The whole place is beautiful and there are many tombs ornately decorated with statues, wrought iron and stained glass. I took the Metro to the Père Lachaise stop and entered through the back; however it’s better to take the Metro to the Phillippe Auguste stop and enter through the front of the cemetery. Maps are only available at the front entrance, so I got mine from a very nice French couple that had an extra.

Let me preface this next section by saying that I never even had a mediocre meal while I was in Paris; everything was amazing! The first night we ate at Chez Janou (2 Rue Roger Verlomme). The food and wine were excellent, and it was a great introduction to Pastis, with over 80 types offered. My friend ordered the chocolate mousse for dessert, and they brought over an enormous bowl. He was shocked at how much there was, but they reassured him it wasn’t all for him as they scooped three-fourths of the bowl onto his plate! It was fluffy, chocolaty and delicious, and my friend finished off most of it with little help from the rest of us.

Another night we went up to Montmartre for dinner and to check out Sacré Coeur Basilica. We ate at a terrific little bistro called Chez Toinette (20 rue Germain Pilon), which was run by a wonderful young couple. The food was amazing, the service was terrific, and I recommend it to anyone going to Paris. After dinner, the woman offered us a digestif, but we politely declined. She insisted and said she had the perfect thing for us. The stuff was called Poir Williams and was like drinking kerosene! My friend coined it an “indigestif.” Other than that, the place was great. We walked up to Sacré Coeur, which was lit up in the fading twilight and is one of the most spectacular sights I have seen. After we walked around and checked out the inside, we sat on the steps with a few hundred other people and watched the twinkling lights of Paris. It was truly sublime, so beautiful that I actually felt a little melancholy, although that could also have been due to the fact that we only had one more night in Paris. We finished the night at a sidewalk café on the winding streets of Montmartre.

If you are looking to have meat for dinner, you can’t get any better than the Boucherie Roulière (24 Rue des Canettes) in the Saint Germain du Pres section of the 6^th Arrondissement. This family owned bistro has been in the butcher business for over a century, and the restaurant demonstrates their expertise. In addition to some of the finest steak I have ever had, the wine was excellent! I would say that it’s nearly impossible to get bad wine in Paris. I developed a new appreciation for French wines, especially Bordeaux. Saint Germain du Pres is filled with bistros, bars and cafés and exhibits a true Avant-Garde feel. After dinner we had a drink in a small bar that had tables downstairs in what used to be a wine cellar. This dark, candle-lit room with small wooden tables, rickety chairs, and low, stone, arched ceilings was the ideal place to drink wine, listen to music, and chat. It was the perfect end to our stay in Paris.

Paris is a different city for everyone, and your experience there will be mostly based on what you put into it. If you want to be the “ugly American,” then you’ll have an ugly experience. If you go trying to embrace the culture, and are open to doing things in a Parisian way, then you will have a wonderful time. Again, this is true of any place you visit, but I think because so many people have a preconceived notion about the French, Parisians often get a bad rep. Then again I could be wrong, maybe they are assholes… I am just going by my own experience.

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This was my second go-round in London. My first visit was my very first trip abroad 10 years ago, in the spring of 1999. I spent a week there with a friend, and we saw just about everything there was to see, often packing two sights into one day. He had studied there for a semester in college and knew his way around, so I had a pretty good guide. That trip really sparked my love of travel, but it would be 6 years before I got back to Europe.

This time around was very different. We had just finished up with Prague and were heading to Paris next. Because we had all been to London before, the emphasis this time was on relaxing and going low-key: pubs, food, & wandering around. I didn’t go sightseeing other than walking past Parliament and Trafalgar Square. We stayed at the Brown’s Hotel in the Mayfair section of London. It’s the epitome of luxury, centrally located, and thus the perfect place to stay.

The first night we went out for dinner in Sloane Square, a nice local neighborhood. The weather was so beautiful: clear skies, warm but not hot, and no humidity. It seemed like the entire city was outside that night enjoying the un-London-like weather. After dinner we had drinks at The Botanist (No.7 Sloane Square) right out front on the street.

Our first day we split up and went our own ways; I was off to the Battersea Power Station to snap some photos that I didn’t get the first time I was in London. What is the Battersea Power Station? It’s exactly what the name indicates. However, it is not in use anymore and has not been for quite a long time. Why is it significant for me? It’s on the cover of Pink Floyd’s Animals, and I am a huge Pink Floyd fan. It was a little cloudy that morning, but it turned out to be another gorgeous day. As the clouds began to clear and the sun started to break through it became perfect for the photos I wanted to take. It was quite a long walk through some neighborhoods that are a little sketchier than I had anticipated or would have liked, but in the end I enjoyed a beautiful walk on a picturesque day and got the photos I wanted! It was so nice to not be fighting crowds of tourists and instead just enjoy the city.

The next day I went out to wander around with one of my friends. He is a big tennis fan, and the day before he and one of the other guys had gone to Wimbledon. We decided to duck into a pub for a pint and check out the match that was on. We ended up talking with a couple of guys there and soon realized that they were a “couple” and thought we were too. It was Gay Pride day in London, and we were two guys who walked into a gay pub, what other conclusion would you draw? I got a good laugh out of it, it’s not the first time I have been mistaken for gay, and probably won’t be the last. They were from San Diego and were there on holiday. Everything was going quite well until the transvestite came out from the back and announced that the show would start in 10 minutes. I think she made my buddy a little uncomfortable and I really didn’t want to listen to anyone sing, so we left after that beer and found another pub. I had an English version of an IPA and since the style originated in England, I figured I was in for a treat. The American versions are much “hoppier” and in my opinion much better. The English, Germans, Czechs, and Belgians all tout their long standing beer culture and traditions, and rightly so, but American beer-making is very respectable and we certainly hold our own (Budweiser, Coors, and Miller being the exceptions). One pub lead to another and we ended up at some pretty cool spots, but I couldn’t tell you where any of them were. At the last place we grabbed a bite to eat to hold us over until dinner. I had a very good and very traditional bangers and mash. It was a great, leisurely day; any day where I can drink all afternoon and meet new people is great!

That night we went to Gordon Ramsey’s Boxwood Café for dinner. I enjoy upscale places where you know you’re going to get a good meal and great wine, but at the same time I tend to feel a bit out of my element. I usually go for a small, understated, hole-in-the-wall with good food and great beer. It is nice to go out with friends to someplace nice every once in a while, and this was no exception. The whole experience was outstanding and I would certainly recommend this place to anyone looking for an upscale dining experience.

Our last night in London was spent with some locals my friend knows. We had dinner at a small place in Kensington, before hitting a pub and eventually a club with an outdoor rooftop. This sort of thing is unusual for London because the weather rarely is nice enough to be outdoors, but as I said, we were getting some of the most pleasant weather I had ever seen. This place was £25 ($40) just to get in, and you had to be accompanied by a member; exactly the kind of elitist place that I hate! I wasn’t going to go, but since one of my friends was leaving for home the next day instead of joining us in Paris, I went. It turned out to be a really good, albeit expensive, time. The rooftop garden was gorgeous and the view of London was extraordinary. It was a great way to cap off this part of our trip.

London is an amazing city whether you are sightseeing or just relaxing. If you’ve never been, then it’s important to see the sights, especially St. Paul’s Cathedral (climb to the top for spectacular views), Tower of London, Westminster Abbey (packed with tombs of important and famous English men and women), the National Gallery (which rivals any art museum), the Courtauld Institute, and maybe some theater. Pubs are a must no matter how many times you’ve been! They’re a cornerstone of English culture and a great way to experience the local flavor (literally and figuratively). The next London experience for me has got to be a Football match (preferable Arsenal)… it’s a great excuse to go back!

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So, your first question may be: Why would anyone go to Düsseldorf? And that may be followed with: Why in February? The answer, my friends, is simple: Money. I have a friend who lives there, so I had a free place to stay and airfare is cheaper in February because who in their right mind would go to Germany in the middle of winter?

All that being said, Düsseldorf was hopping! It was Carnival, which precedes Ash Wednesday and the Lenten season, so it was just one big party! The city of Cologne, which is about 30 minutes away and Düsseldorf’s big rival, also does Carnival. It is a point of contention between the two cities as to who does it better. Since I did not visit Cologne, I have no basis to judge, but I can say that Düsseldorf does get pretty crazy with the costumes and all-day drunkenness. In fact, it was a bit too crazy for me. I know, I know… I must be getting old! This thing would have been right up my alley 10 years ago, but 23 and 33 seem worlds apart. The crowds of drunken people packed so tight in the streets, let alone the bars, made getting a drink a chore. I don’t like to work for my beer. I want the next one set down on the table as I am finishing off the last, damnit! And having drunks puking in the street right in front of you in the middle of the afternoon is just not my thing. It was a worthwhile experience though, but one I do not need to repeat!

Luckily, we got out of town for a few days to visit Berlin and Munich, and came back to check out Düsseldorf after things quieted down. In the mean time, we made due. We got some authentic German food, drank Altbier, and tried to avoid the Altstadt (Old City) section where Carnival takes place. Altibier is a nice, amber-colored beer with a light taste. The beers here come in 0.33 liters (about 11 oz.), which seemed kind of small compared to what I was expecting, but most places are good about having your next beer to you quickly, so I let it slide.

When we got back to Düsseldorf, things had quieted down considerably! The Altstadt had become quite pleasant to walk through without drunkards stumbling and bumping you, looking like they’re gonna spew vomit all over you, Linda Blair style. There’s quite a variety of food in the Altstadt: Spanish places, pizza places, and Turkish Döner, which is shaved meat wrapped in flatbread, topped with various salad-type veggies and your choice of sauces. Of course, German food can be found and the bratwurst and pork shank are quite tasty, but I said it once and I’ll say it again: watch out for the sauerkraut! We ate at the Schlüssel Brewpub; they brew their version of Altbier right on the premises. Good beer, good food, and located right in the Altstadt.

Düsseldorf has some pretty interesting things to see. The Der Neue Zollhof buildings, designed by Frank Gehry, are architecturally unique and pretty cool to check out. They’re located in the Media Harbor section of the city near the large TV tower (you can’t miss it).

Königsallee (King’s Avenue) is the major shopping area, and has all the high-priced brands. It’s a gorgeous street from the architecture to the tree-lined canal crossed by beautiful bridges. In the warm months, it is the place to see and be seen in Düsseldorf. People watching here can be quite interesting with all the Middle-Eastern money settling in at the cafés and frequenting the shops. Seriously, the money here is obscene. If you are young and good-looking you should see about coming here and getting yourself a cougar, sugar-momma! Unfortunately, February is not cougar-season, so I was out of luck!!

There’s also an outdoor market where locals shop for food. Like most European marketplaces, the food is grown or raised locally and is as fresh as you can get. Marketplaces are great for breakfast or a lunch/snack while sightseeing. Any town you go to, you are sure to find local delicacies here. The farmers who produce this food are not large and corporate, so the food is usually produced without hormones, pesticides, etc. And because it is not shipped long distances, the carbon footprint is minimal; it is the way food should be!

My last night, my friend took me for Persian food. I had been looking forward to this since I arrived! To start, she ordered Dugh, which is a mixture of yogurt, water, and some dried mint. I am not a fan of plain yogurt… the bitter taste does nothing for me, but I really wanted to try this because it is a traditional Persian drink. My first taste was not pleasant, but I gave it a few more tries as dinner progressed. I got about a quarter of the way through the glass, but that was it, I just could not acquire a taste for it. As for the food… it was phenomenal!! I had grilled lamb and tomato with saffron rice. You begin by adding butter to the rice, then chop up pieces of the lamb and tomato and mix it all in. This was such a simple dish, but SO good (as most simple dishes are)!!

Düsseldorf is often overlooked because of its larger neighbor, Cologne, but it ended up being a worthwhile place to visit. It is not a destination in and of itself, but a good place to check out if you are nearby. And Altbier is pretty damn good, too!!

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After a six-hour train ride from Berlin, I arrived in Munich around 10 p.m. The Deutchbahn is a great system… on time, clean, fast, comfortable and efficient. The train stations are large, but very easy to navigate. I certainly understand why most Germans travel by train. In addition, the fast food in the train stations is not the greasy, fatty American fast food; it’s fresh-baked goodness, and certainly worth grabbing a bite for the long train-ride. By the time I arrived in Munich, I was exhausted, so I just checked into my hotel and went to sleep in hopes of getting an early start in the morning. I almost always get breakfast at the hotel before I go out… there’s usually a great spread of American and European fare, and since it is included in the price of the room, I take advantage of not spending the money outside.

Munich was the first time I saw the sun shine since I arrived in Germany 3 days earlier. That certainly helped my disposition heading out to explore the city, but the beauty of the buildings did even more to bolster my mood, and Munich would have distinguished itself regardless of the weather. Most of the major sights are in and around Marienplatz, the city center. The new City Hall, which dominates the square, is awash in Gothic architecture and a magnificent sight! The Glockenspiel, with its working figurines that put on a show at certain hours, is a must see (check to see when the clock does the full spectacle because it is not every hour).

Okay, now for the important stuff… the Hofbräuhaus! This has got to be the most famous establishment in all of Germany. It is flooded with tourists, waitresses in dirndls, and as such, a place I would typically avoid, or at least be skeptical of. But the lure of 1-liter dunkel bier was like the Sirens’ song, and alas, I could not resist! Locals in any city generally avoid the tourist traps like the plague, but not at the Hofbräuhaus… locals have reserved tables here! That seems to say it all. It’s not famous because it’s touristy, it’s touristy because it’s the absolute best place to eat and drink in all of Munich, and thus, perhaps all of Germany! I don’t like to throw around superlatives, but in this case I will because it’s deserved. If you want to impress the locals, order a 1-liter bier, preferably a dunkel (I had 3). It is perfection in a glass, and the best beer I had in all of Germany (and I had quite a few). Nothing else even compared. Have I made myself clear? If you are in Germany, any part of Germany, get yourself down to Munich… get yourself to the Hofbräuhaus!!

Now, I was in for a special treat this day (and “special” is subjective) because there were about ten thousand Italians from Florence in town for the Fiorentina-Bayern Munich Champions League match. The Hofbräuhaus, and much of the rest of Munich, was slathered in Italians wearing purple and red and singing Fiorentina “fight”-songs. One table would begin to sing and the whole room would erupt and be capped off with a rousing “FI-REN-ZE”!!! An employee of the Hofbräuhaus did his best to try to stifle the singing, but every time he got one table under control another would break out on the other side of the room and he would rush over there. The poor guy looked like a cross between Sisyphus and the Gestapo. It was a spectacle to be sure!

What I don’t understand, and maybe someone can explain this to me, is the line of people waiting to get into the Hard Rock Café across the street from the Hofbräuhaus. Who comes all the way to Munich to go to the Hard Rock Café? I don’t care where you’re from, if you’re in Munich it’s presumably because you have an interest in Bavarian culture, so why aren’t you at one of the many Bavarian establishments? Not to mention that chain restaurants are an abomination! I wanted to slap some sense into every person on that line!

I went to a couple of other Bavarian establishments as well, the Augustiner being the most notable. It is certainly worth checking out different places to get a feel for what’s good. Wherever you go, be prepared to share tables; it is a great way to meet new people and immerse yourself in the culture a bit. There are three basic beer styles you can order: Dunkel (dark) which is by far my favorite, your typical light-colored pilsner which is what most people would probably enjoy, and a Radler which is beer mixed with lemon-lime soda and tends to be more popular with women. Beers come in half-liters or full liters and you won’t be looked down upon for ordering a half, plenty of people do :^). The cuisine of Munich is what we think of as typical German food: pork shank, bratwurst with sauerkraut, pretzels, etc, etc, etc. My tip: watch out for the sauerkraut, maybe get some dark bread instead (I’ll leave it at that).

There are three major art museums in Munich, all in the same area and just a short walk north/northwest of the city center. I went to the Alte Pinakothek (Old Museum), which displays work from the 14^th to the 18^th Centuries. It’s a brick building that looks bigger from the outside than from the inside, but for €5, it’s definitely worth checking out. Some highlights include:

Albrecht Dürer’s “Self-Portrait” and “Four Apostles.” There are also some very large, dramatic, and utterly impressive works by Rubens. One particular paining by Rubens stood out to me; it depicts Judgment Day and dominates the central room on the upstairs floor. The scope is so enormous that you really have to focus to take in the details. You really need to stand there for a few moments and break down the painting into sections to see all that Rubens put into this remarkable work. Take a good look at the man in the bottom right-hand corner being dragged to hell by demons… a great image in and of itself that I think may get overshadowed by the rest of the painting. Titian, Rembrandt, Raphael, and even Da Vinci also have minor pieces here.

The building itself is quite beautiful too. It is all red brick on the outside except for the areas that were repaired after WWII; they intentionally used lighter colored bricks so the damage and subsequent repairs would remain visible. The building actually feels a little industrial, which I think makes a great setting for art: brick, high ceilings, large windows, etc.

The Neue Pinakothek and Pinakothek der Moderne are situated on adjacent blocks and house work from the 19^th and 20^th Centuries, respectively.

Munich has some beautiful churches as well, and I visited two of them. The Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Blessed Lady) is the one that dominates the skyline and has the onion-shaped spires. There’s usually no admission to get into churches and most contain some beautiful art and architecture. Even for a non-religious heathen like myself, it’s really soothing and peaceful to take in the silent, tranquil beauty. This day was Ash Wednesday though, and there was a little less tranquility because television crews were inside setting up to broadcast the afternoon mass. This didn’t ruin the experience though.

St. Peterskirche is the other church that I visited and is just off the city center near the Viktualienmarkt. For me, the strangest thing about this church is some of the relics… specifically the Tomb of Munditia, which is a glass encasement that houses the bones of Saint Munditia, a Christian Martyr. This is common in some European churches (sacred relics were a source of power), however, it seems oddly out of place to me. Sitting in church every week listening to a sermon and having a skeleton stare back at me would be a bit unnerving, but perhaps that’s what it is meant to do… make you evaluate yourself and your ways?

The Viktualienmarkt is Munich’s main market place, and a great place to sample some local cuisine. It is located just to the south of Marienplatz. Come hungry! There are no supermarkets filled with preservative-laden frozen food that has been shipped from across the country: detrimental to both your health and the environment. This is where locals get their food; it is raised, grown, and produced locally, and is as fresh as can be. There are tall tables where you can stand and eat lunch, and in the winter these areas are closed up and heated. Whatever city you are in, eat at the local marketplace… you will not be disappointed.

All in all, Munich is a blast, and somewhere I will definitely return to. Good food, great beer, and good, friendly people!! Munich is on my list of greatest cities to visit. Obviously, warmer weather would enhance the experience: The English Gardens, where locals congregate to enjoy nice weather, and outdoor beer-gardens are wonderful experiences for the warmer months. But even in the depths of the bitter-cold German winter, fun can be had in Munich!!

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I spent just over 24 hours in Berlin… not nearly enough time to experience the city to its fullest, but more than enough time in the middle of February. My impression was a hodgepodge of bad architecture with a few leftover gems. While much of Germany got to decide how they would rebuild their cities after WWII, Berlin did not. Post-war Berlin is a mishmash of buildings designed for function rather than form. I expected to see this in what is the former East Berlin, which was run by the Communists, but was surprised to find it throughout the city. The shame of it all is that if Berlin looked like it did before WWII, it would rival other European cities aesthetically.

Berlin might take a cue from Munich, which has buried the notorious moments in its past and is known for Beer Halls, Beer Festivals, and all types of beer-related fun (see my Munich entry). Not to say that the past should be completely buried. WWII is obviously something that should never be forgotten, but if Berliners want their city to be something more than a living WWII museum, then they need to offer more. One way to do this is to make the city more attractive.

I got around mostly by subway (the S-Bahn or the U-Bahn). The subway system, like most in major European cities, is easy. You can get a single-ride or multi-ride day pass; it is well worth it in the colder months, and because Berlin is so sprawling, it also makes sense in the warmer months. For this reason too, it is best to have a plan so you can see things that are close together at the same time and not have to back-track.

The Brandenburg Gate is a must. If there is a defining piece of architecture in Berlin, this is it. The Gate is one of the most recognizable sites in all of Europe. Try to see it at sunset or after dark when the lighting is dramatic. At one time, there were 14 of these gates surrounding the city, and I can only imagine what a sight that must have been. It is so quintessentially Berlin, that Napoleon stole the statue of the Goddess of Victory from the top and brought it to Paris; Berlin eventually got it back in 1814. When the communists occupied East Berlin they turned the statue to face East towards Moscow.

The Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church) is a beautiful reminder of this city’s sad history. You can still enter what is left of the building, and see some of the mosaics on the walls and the repairs made to the cracks that run through them. The outside is really what is most impressive. The broken spire still reaching skyward is undeniable. It commands your attention, and may be the best reminder of the lost beauty of Berlin.

If you are into shopping, from the Kaiser Wilhelm Church, you can walk down Kurfürstendamm Street (or Ku’damm for short), which begins in this area. It’s the Madison Ave. of Berlin. Shopping is shopping and Prada in Berlin is pretty much the same as Prada in Rome, Paris, or New York, so I don’t really have to (or want to) say any more about it.

If you are going to Berlin, then you’re probably going specifically to see some of the WWII, Nazi, and Cold War history. You’ll want to see the Topography of Terrors and Checkpoint Charlie. Make sure you get the obligatory photo of your friend running across the border at Checkpoint Charlie (like the guy shown in this photo). Inside the museum are some intriguing displays such as cars used to transport people from East to West Berlin. There are also documents and photos that explain some other ingenious ways people got across, like being stuffed into suitcases. However, €12.50 per person is pretty steep for the amount there is to see, and I would skip it. The Topography of Terrors is undergoing renovation, so all I got to see were some outdoor displays. I think the new display is set to open Spring of 2010. If you do find yourself in this section of Berlin, definitely check out the Ministry of Finance, which was Goering’s Air Ministry and is the last Nazi building in existence. The Neo-Classical architecture is typically fascist (grey and imposing) and interesting from that standpoint. It is meant to make you feel small and insignificant, and maybe that was part of what captured my attention. On an adjacent street between the Ministry building and the Topography of Terrors is a sizeable piece of the Wall with graffiti and holes smashed in it from 1989. It is a modern version of a Greek or Roman ruin.

Unter den Linden (meaning “Under the Linden” in reference to the Linden trees that line the street) is a large boulevard that begins on the East side of the Brandenburg Gate and is where you see many of the grand old buildings of Berlin. As you move from West to East, lining the street are: The Aldon Hotel, the Russian Embassy, Statue of Frederick the Great, Humbolt University, The Berlin State Opera House, The National War Memorial in the Neue Wache building, Deutsches History Museum, and finally winding up on Museum Island along with the Berliner Dom (Cathedral). Definitely take some time to stroll this avenue and take it all in. This is the closest you will get to a feeling of what Berlin looked like before WWII, and how beautiful it was. Unter den Linden is probably much more impressive during the spring and summer months when the trees are in bloom and the streets are crammed with tourists… okay, probably just better with the trees in bloom.

Some important things that I did not get to see mostly because of a lack of time are:

The Eastside Gallery. It’s the longest remaining part of the Wall, and many world-renowned artists were commissioned to do murals after the reunification in 1989. This is certainly worth seeing, however, the part of the wall covered with impromptu graffiti done before and after reunification is more heartfelt because it was created by those who experienced the division.

The Pergamon Museum which houses the Ishtar Gate from Babylon is a must see, that I unfortunately did not see; it will have to wait for my next trip. I do have a problem with Babylon’s great history being displayed in a European city, but that is also part of its history, I guess. Apparently it was excavated and removed under the proper legal provisions of the time. Regardless of where it is, it is an important piece of history.

The Tacheles is an artist commune. This is a great way to see Berlin’s contemporary art scene, and being an art teacher and practicing artist, it is interesting for me to get a feel for what Berlin artists are creating now. The best part of traveling is experiencing what is local. I don’t want to be where the tourists are; I want to experience the local scenes as much as possible, and Tacheles is one great way to do so.

As far as food, I did not eat anything here that is quintessentially German. Berlin is an international city with lots of types of cuisine represented, and since many Germans don’t even like German food, it wasn’t easy to come by. I figured I’d save the German fare for Munich.

All in all, Berlin is a city still discovering itself. After all, the modern incarnation is only 20 years old. I would not go to Germany specifically for Berlin, however, if you are in Germany, Berlin is an important stop.

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