"travel leaves a mark"

I’ve had a mild obsession with Seattle since high school, when “grunge” exploded and music once again meant something. It was such a short-lived period; it burned bright, but burnt out quickly. Many times I’ve daydreamed about packing up my car, getting on I-90 West, and driving until I hit Puget Sound. I finally visited Seattle this summer. I wasn’t sure if it could live up to all my expectations, but it did! In fact, it was better than I had imagined.

Of course, it didn’t hurt that the weather was beautiful, but it was more about the vibe of the whole city. In Seattle, “grunge” wasn’t a fad; it’s still alive and well. The beer and food are also amazing! No trip to Seattle would be complete without eating your way through Pike Place Market; I’ve never felt so ashamed and so satisfied at the same time!

A market guide and map are available, or you can just wander around and discover things serendipitously. There are quite a few places worth visiting:

• We started at 3 Girls Bakery for breakfast. The cheddar and bacon croissant was flaky and delicious. My girlfriend had an apricot and cheese danish, which must have been very good because I didn’t even get a bite.
• From there, we had a couple of iced coffees from Seattle’s Best in Post Alley. If you’re one of the many people who want coffee from the first Starbucks (also located in Pike’s Market), be prepared to wait on the ridiculously long line for coffee that’s no different from what you can get at any other Starbucks.
• On the lower levels of the market are junk and collectible shops that are great for browsing and treasure hunting. We checked out a place that had old concert posters from the heyday of the grunge era, though I’m sad to report I couldn’t find any for Alice in Chains; they never got the respect they deserved!
• We also sought out the “gum wall”— a truly unique and disgusting sight laden with thousands of pieces of chewed gum. We decided not to “contribute” to the wall because we didn’t want to touch someone else’s nasty, saliva and germ-infested gum.
• I was looking forward to Pike Brewery, but just wanted to wait until a respectable hour to have a beer. Who am I kidding? I was waiting for them to open! I started out with a saison, which was a little hoppier version than most, but still finished with traditional saison flavors. Their stout is really good with subtle hints of chocolate and coffee. The “Double Trouble” double IPA was good, but only slightly hoppier than their regular IPA. We ended up sitting for quite a while and talking with a family from North Dakota and another family from Akron— the thing I love about both beer and travel is meeting people.
• We needed a little food to soak up the beer, so we headed over to Pike Place Chowder. Their New England clam chowder was voted “Nation’s Best,” so we had to try it. We also tried the market chowder with chorizo and “today’s catch” crab and oysters. Both were excellent, as I imagine everything else on the menu is too.
• As we passed by La Buona Tavola, we decided it was a good idea to do some wine tasting. They offer three, 2 ounce glasses for $5 and we ended up with a couple of extra tastings too; mostly west coast wines. Cameron, our tasting guide, was really nice and quite knowledgeable.
• Emma Watson’s was next on our “where to eat” list. A dozen oysters cost $20.50 and beers were $4.50 each. It’s a good, super-casual spot with really fresh and tasty oysters.
• Piroshky, Piroshky, a famous Pike Market establishment, was nearby and smelled so good we had to try some. Piroshkys are meat filled baked pastries— the beef and cheese version is their best seller. While that was good, the salmon was way better, and I’m not even a big fan of fish.
• I broke a cardinal rule of mine: I went into a Hard Rock Café. Before you label me a hypocrite, let me explain: I went in to check out their memorabilia from Alice in Chains, Nirvana, Pearl Jam and the like— I did not eat or drink anything, nor was there any fiduciary exchange of any kind. It was really cool to see vestiges of some of my favorite bands, and if you choose to visit the Hard Rock Café Seattle, I would not begrudge you even staying for a drink— after all, they’re preserving relics of grunge and it’s pretty cool they will let anyone check out their collection (not just patrons).

That was one day in Pike Market, but we weren’t even done eating for the day! After watching a street artist finish up a large, beautiful, sidewalk portrait, we decided pizza was the best option for our drunkenness. Serious Pie is the only good pizza I’ve had outside of New York or Italy, but it wasn’t just good, it was excellent! There was a line of people waiting every time we passed by— always a good sign. We ordered two pizzas— clam, pancetta, chilies and lemon thyme; and sweet fennel sausage, peppers and provolone. We met a local couple and chatted with them during the entire meal. Everyone, both locals and visitors, were so nice everywhere we went in Seattle— we talked to way more people than we ever do in New York.

The next day was spent walking off the calories from the previous day. We started at an outdoor sculpture park in the Belltown section and then followed a pedestrian path along the waterfront. After a few hours, we were hungry again and near the market, so we checked out Uli’s for traditional European-style sausages. I had kielbasa with stone-ground mustard and potato salad, while my girlfriend had Moroccan lamb sausage with garlic aioli and cole slaw— both were good, hers was better. While sitting at Uli’s, we heard on the radio that Anthony Bourdain was in town filming The Layover, and I spent the rest of my time in Seattle on the lookout for him.

From the market, we walked up Pike Street to the Capitol Hill section off the city and had a few beers at Elysian Brewery. I had a saison with elderflowers and my girlfriend had an IPA with jasmine— both were very good with nice, subtle flavors. The Elysian porter is excellent: roasty, chocolatey goodness! My girlfriend also had the ”Loser” pale ale, named in recognition of Sub-Pop Records’ 20^th anniversary.

As I mentioned previously, we were on a trip down grunge memory lane, so while we were in Capitol Hill, we sought out the apartment building where the movie Singles was filmed— cheesy, I know. But, we were both pretty excited when we found the building!

After our hokey adolescent hijinks, we had sushi at Momiji, which was recommended by a friend of a friend who lives in Seattle. We ordered the sweet and coconutty “thunderball roll,” the spicy “2012 roll,” and the illustrious “rainbow tower”— all very fresh and tasty! Momiji had nice ambiance and was filled with mostly local people since it’s in a more residential area away from downtown.

We debated whether we should go to the top of the Space Needle, or if it was just touristy nonsense. I’ve lived in and around New York City my whole life I haven’t even been to the top of the Empire State Building or the Statue of Liberty. We decided that we should check it out, especially since sunset was approaching. Despite the $19 fee, it was absolutely worth it! In the distance, Mt. Rainier looked ethereal; it seemed to be floating above the Earth, detached and otherworldly. It was an extraordinary and somewhat eerie sight.

The next day we decided to rent a car and drive out to Mt. Rainier. Despite our doubt, the drive took every bit of the two and a half hours the GPS predicted— it looks so close from the city, and it’s actually only 80 miles away, but those windy, precarious roads take time to travel. Along the way, there are lush evergreen forests and beautiful waterfalls that give the Cascade Mountains their name. The roads become steeper towards the top, with huge drop-offs and no guardrails— drivers can easily sail right off the edge. We made it to the Paradise scenic area and walked around a bit; there was still a lot of snow on the ground, even in July. The National Park Service website states:

Ascending to 14,410 feet above sea level, Mount Rainier stands as an icon in the Washington landscape. An active volcano, Mount Rainier is the most glaciated peak in the contiguous U.S.A., spawning six major rivers. Subalpine wildflower meadows ring the icy volcano while ancient forest cloaks Mount Rainier’s lower slopes. Wildlife abounds in the park’s ecosystems.

This was one of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen and one of the best days of our trip! It is absolutely worth heading out into the Cascade Mountains.

After a long day of driving, we decided to just have a low-key dinner near the hotel. Five Points Café & Lounge is a dive-bar serving great burgers and beers. When I read, “alcoholics serving alcoholics since 1929” on the menu, I knew I’d like this place! Our waiter was a hipster, which meant that in NYC he’d be a pretentious douchbag, but here in Seattle, he’s just a really nice, friendly guy. The cheddar burger with avocado and jalapeños was great, and the St. Florian IPA was very good too— I loved this place!

Our last day was for tying up loose ends, which meant more eating! We had the pleasure of eating breakfast at Biscuit Bitch, where they put southern biscuits to shame! Just an egg, sausage, and cheese biscuit with a dollop of butter on top, but so well done— the simplicity was the beauty of it.

We walked downtown to check out the architecture in and around Pioneer Square and have lunch at Salumi, where they cure their own Italian-style meats. Armandino Batali (father of Mario Batali) began the business after he retired from Boeing, but now his daughter runs Salumi. It’s a well-know stop on the Seattle food scene, and I thought I might have finally tracked down Anthony Bourdain when I spotted one of his producers outside. Once inside though, a couple of cameramen were all we saw. The food, which was what we really came for, completely satisfied! There’s always the chance that a place like this is over-hyped, but Salumi lives up to the hype with incredible quality and taste. We had finocchiona (salami with fennel) and provolone on cibatta bread with onions and peppers— worth the wait in line!

One last sight to see was the beautiful Seattle skyline from the deck of the Bainbridge Ferry. The ferry costs $7.50 each round-trip, and there’s not much to do on Bainbridge Island, but it’s worth the trip for the view— you can always do a little wine tasting at one of several wine shops while you wait for the return ferry.

How do I sum up Seattle without making it sound like every other city I’ve enjoyed? It’s unlike any city I’ve been to— it’s SO much better in so many ways— from the food, drinks, and architecture to the intangible feel of the city and its people. It’s more than comfortable, it’s familiar and reassuring. One of these days— maybe, just maybe— I’ll finally pack up the car and move to Seattle.

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As one might expect, it was raining when our plane touched down in Vancouver. However, summer is the dry season in the Pacific Northwest, and by that afternoon the rain had dried, the sky had cleared, and the long term forecast called for nothing but sunshine and mild temperatures.

After checking into our hotel, our next priority was to find some food. We walked towards the waterfront area where, low and behold, we found Japadog. I had heard of the wonder that is Japadog from television, blogs, and other travel resources, so I was excited to finally try one. The “terimayo pork dog” is their most popular, and it lived up to all the hype: teriyaki sauce, mayo, and seaweed on a juicy, delicious pork hot dog. Over the course of our stay in Vancouver, I made my way back to Japadog several times, but it was still not nearly enough. I also had the “okonomi dog:” pork dog, sauces, and fish flakes. While that was pretty damn good, the terimayo was still the best— I made sure to have another before we left.

Vancouver has a well-known street food scene, with food trucks located all over the city. Websites and apps help give hungry customers exact locations and hours. Http://streetfoodapp.com/vancouver is a particularly comprehensive and useful website. Badabing does an excellent cheesesteak with spicy and garlic sauces on fresh, soft bread. Streetmeat’s specialty is pork belly bites, but get there early, as I found out the hard way they sell out quickly— an extremely disappointing turn of events.

Robson Street is also a good location to find some tasty food. We randomly discovered Aladdin Café (615 Robson St.) while searching for dinner. Yes, it’s a cliché name, but it had incredibly tasty beef shawarma. They put everything on it: shaved beef, hummus, garlic sauce, taboulei, peppers (hot & pickled), tahini sauce, and spicy sauce— an orgiastic feast of flavors! The parsley-flavored finish from the taboulei was particularly good.

The Granville Market, appropriately located on Granville Island, is another great spot to eat your way through. Breakfast, lunch, dinner— it doesn’t matter— just be ready to eat! Oyama Sausage is an absolute must. They’re known for their wild boar prosciutto, which is some of the best I’ve ever had. We also tried their smoked speck and maple cheddar (which wasn’t particularly maple-y).  Paired with two small loaves of bread (cheese and olive) from Terra Bread, we had ourselves a nice little lunch. The next day we had coffee from J. J. Bean and donuts from Lee’s Donuts for breakfast, both of which were delicious.

Granville Island offers more than just the market: artists’ studios and shops, two breweries, and lots of open green spaces. Granville Island Brewery has a great selection of beer, however, they’re only allowed to serve twelve ounces to each customer. So, if you want to sample all their beers, go early and then swing by again later before you leave the island. I decided on the beer flight: three, four-ounce glasses. I had the hefeweizen, which was a pretty typical version; an IPA, which was also pretty standard; and a Cascadian Dark, which was a black IPA and the clear winner amongst the three. They also make a maple cream that they were out of each time I stopped by. I was curious to try it though, so I ended up buying it in a bottle. It wasn’t all that noteworthy, however, I don’t think I can make a true judgment without trying it on draft.

The Dockside Brewery at the Granville Island Hotel also makes some tasty brews on site. Since they are designated as a bar instead of a brewery, you can have as much beer as you’d like. I tried the dark lager and enjoyed the roasty, dark flavors despite not being a fan of lagers. We met Marty, the very friendly assistant brewmaster, and he gave us a couple of tastes of their other styles, including a Jamaican lager with a hint of hibiscus, and a hefeweizen with subtle notes of banana and cloves.

There’s definitely no shortage of cool places to go for drinks in Vancouver. The Alibi Room in the Gastown section of the city has a great beer list and a very cool, albeit slightly hipster, vibe. Steamworks, also in Gastown, makes one of the best stouts I’ve ever had— simple with a nice, roasty finish. The Granville Room, surrounded by old art deco theaters on Granville Street, has good beer, great music and a hip retro vibe. Yaletown also has a great selection of bars housed in really cool industrial buidlings.

Because of the tremendous street food culture, we only ate a couple of sit-down meals while in Vancouver. I had one of the best meals of my life at Vij’s (www.vijs.ca). They don’t take reservations, so get there early and expect a wait. We arrived when they opened at 5:30 and just missed the first seating. The owner, Vikram Vij, greeted us at the door and invited us to have a seat out front, order drinks, and sample some bites as we waited. After an hour and a half, and perhaps one too many drinks, we got our table and looked over the menu. For appetizers, we decided the mutton kebabs were a must, and our waiter suggested what he called “the best” samosa— he was not over selling!  The lamb “popsicles” are the house-special, so we ordered them along with Rajasthani-style goat for our entrees. There aren’t enough adjectives to emphasize how amazing this meal was! In addition, Mr. Vij came over to our table several times while we were eating to make sure everything was satisfactory. I believe the food here was so incredible because the owner is so hands-on and involved in every aspect of his restaurant. When my girlfriend suggested that he open a location in New York, he replied, “A restaurant is like a woman, they need a lot of attention.” It’s that attention that makes Vij’s what it is!

Blue Water Café + Raw Bar (www.bluewatercafe.net) in Yaletown was also highly recommended, and it didn’t disappoint. We tried the oyster sampler consisting of four different kinds of west coast oysters: kumamoto, shigoku, royal miyag, and little wing. We also ordered the sashimi sampler: three types of tuna, a prawn, sockeye salmon, a scallop, and calamari. These were some of the freshest oysters and fish I have ever eaten, and a really good meal. I had read that this place was a little over-hyped, but I didn’t think so.

We didn’t eat a meal at the Salt Tasting Room, but had excellent wine, cheese and charcuterie tastings. We chose a wine sampling of three wines from the Pacific Northwest. The sommelier chose wines that paired appropriately with the cheese and charcuterie plates— I think it’s best to let experts choose the pairings for me in a place like this. Hidden down a back alley in the Gastown section of the city, the people at Salt Tasting Room do a great job.

All this great food, beer, and wine calls for a little outdoor activity— luckily, there’s plenty to be had just ten minutes outside of town. We took the free shuttle from downtown to the Capilano Suspension Bridge. The bridge was created in 1889 to encourage tourism and promote conservations efforts for the surrounding forest. The current steel cable bridge, 450 feet long and 230 feet above the canyon floor, replaced the original hemp bridge. The height is not nearly as disconcerting as the swaying that occurs as people cross over. I was holding on for dear life as I tried to take in the spectacularly sublime view: breathtakingly beautiful and terrifying at the same time. The cliff walk, a narrow walkway connected to a rock face high up over the gorge, is another big attraction here. Though still a bit unsettling, it’s not as bad because it doesn’t sway!

A short bus ride just up the road brought us to Grouse Mountain. We took a gondola up to the top of the mountain— it seemed to be a day about facing my fear of heights. The view from the top is spectacular; snow covered mountain peaks and lush evergreen forests all around. Attractions at the top include two adult grizzly bears that were rescued as cubs, a “birds of prey” show, and stunning views.

Another great place to spend some time outdoors is Stanley Park, named for the same Lord Stanley as the Stanley Cup. It’s a huge, beautiful park in downtown Vancouver with lots of trails along the water and through the woods— a great way to spend an afternoon.

Chinatown is a pretty sketchy area, but we made our way over to the Dr. Sun Yat Sen garden. Admission to the garden is $14, but a great alternative is the beautiful, free park next door, featuring koi ponds, foot-bridges, and plenty of bamboo.

In all, we spent five nights in Vancouver, but could have stayed longer— it’s such an easy city to navigate and there’s so much to see and do. Food, drinks, outdoor adventures, or just relaxing, Vancouver really has so much to offer and the people are really nice— gotta love those Canadians!

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Few places remain culturally and politically relevant for thousands of years; empires rise and fall, cultural and political centers shift. Istanbul, however, has stood the test of time. From its origins as Constantinople, capital of both the Roman and Ottoman Empires, through the Cold War, and now as an intersection of conservative Islam and Western ideals, Istanbul remains broadly relevant. It may be an old city, but is by no means a dead one. A heterogeneous mixture of backgrounds, faiths, and cultures have gathered in this city for thousands of years.

Nowhere is this mixture reflected greater than in Turkish cuisine. Vegetables, spices, and recipes from the far corners of the Ottoman Empire abound in the food of modern day Turkey. With each meal there are familiar flavors, bringing to mind dishes from elsewhere, but never exactly like the one you’re eating. From street food and home cooking to more high-end fare, the food of Istanbul is amazing!

Because restaurants in the Sultanahmet area cater to tourists, they tend to have similar menus. Amedros Café, Khorasani, and Rumeli Café are all in close proximity and serve both modern dishes as well as recreations of Ottoman specialties. Being so highly recommended, these restaurants are filled with tourists, but as I ate the delicious food, I wondered if that makes the experience any less genuine? The recipes are authentic, so does it really matter who is sitting at the table beside me? Ottoman pastry filled with spinach, cheese, and paçanga (a pastrami-like meat) is a relatively standard and delicious appetizer on most menus. Many Ottoman dishes consist of lamb, eggplant, garlic, and spices, sometimes with cheese or yogurt. The food at all three of these restaurants was quite good, though Rumeli Café, housed in a former printing factory, had the most interesting ambiance.

Food stalls in Istanbul are also high quality— döner kebabs, lahmacun (Turkish “pizza”), and all kinds of delicious food are available. Of course, prices are inflated directly outside tourist attractions. Outside the Grand Bazaar döner was 10-20 YTL, but just across the street it was only 5 YTL. Likewise, don’t eat anyplace where prices are not posted; otherwise, be prepared for a shock when the bill arrives.

The Beyoğlu section of the city, across the Galata Bridge, has some standout restaurants as well. Lunch at Gurme Boncuk on Asmali Mescit Street consisted of fresh and delicious fried calamari, grilled octopus, and fried anchovies (with the heads). This small restaurant was decked out in dark wood that gave it a rustic feel— a great meal that we happened on by chance. Karaköy Lokantasi, in a more run-down area of Beyoğlu, specializes in Meze. These small dishes, similar to tapas, are designed to be shared, and thus perfect for groups. We ordered a variety of dishes, but the grilled eggplant, fried artichokes, and lamb meatballs stood out. I had been dying to try lamb brains, but unfortunately they were all out that evening.

Asitane Restaurant, out near the old city wall, was an incredible dining experience. The restaurant’s owner has poured through the diaries of foreign ambassadors, kitchen registers of both Topkapi and Dolmabahçe Palaces, and countless libraries to find and resurrect recipes from the Ottoman Empire. His diligence pays off in every delicious bite! We had circassian cheese grilled and served with oyster mushrooms, lamb meat and brain pâté, and calamari stuffed with prawn, onions, sautéed rice, and pine nuts. A beautiful Turkish red wine from Angora was the perfect compliment to the meal.

Asitane is an ideal place for lunch when visiting the Chora Museum, which is an absolute must! This former church and mosque is now a museum housing the finest and most well preserved examples of Byzantine mosaics and paintings in Istanbul. Because the building is so small, everything can be seen in a short amount of time, but I couldn’t bring myself to leave right away— I walked around over and over again to savor the experience for as long as possible.

The Hagia Sophia, also a former church and mosque, is one of the most visited attractions in Istanbul. Built by Emperor Justinian and inaugurated in 537 AD, it’s close to fifteen hundred years old. As we walked into the main room, my girlfriend and I both audibly uttered, “wow!” The response must be involuntary because everyone who walked in just after us said the same thing. Despite the light flooding through the windows and the low hanging chandeliers, the Hagia Sophia is dark and feels every bit its age. Notwithstanding, it is nothing short of spectacular!

Across from the Haiga Sophia, the Blue Mosque has free admission and is a magnificent sight to see. A working mosque, tourists are not allowed to enter during prayer, but the Arasta Bazaar is close by and a good place to kill some time until prayers finish. Inside, the mosaic patterns on the walls and dome are stunning! An office inside the mosque encourages visitors stop in to ask questions and learn a bit more about Islam. If the Blue Mosque is a little too crowded for your taste, head to the Suleymaniye Mosque.  It has an even larger and equally beautiful dome— fewer visitors and just as remarkable.

Istanbul is full of extraordinary things to see and the Basilica Cistern was one of my favorites. This huge, underground room is supported by 336 columns and once contained the water supply for this area of the city. The columns are floodlit with orange light and give the room an appearance similar to what I would expect Hell to look like; it’s eerie and spectacular. This was another amazing place where I had to linger a while.

The Dolmabahçe palace, however, is not worth the time nor the money— not even if it were free. Don’t get me wrong, this Baroque palace is incredibly beautiful, but it was the most boring tour I have even been a part of. Visitors must take the tour, exploring on one’s own in not permitted. There are forty to fifty people all being herded along through the hallways trying to peer into rooms for a few seconds. It’s a shame too, because parts of the palace are interesting and probably worth seeing if it were done under better circumstances.

The Topkapi Palace, on the other hand, is a little more interesting if for no other reason than you can explore it on your own. The harem is what attracts most visitors, which is why there’s an extra charge to visit that section. Depending on the crowd, entrance times to the harem must be arranged in advance; it’s best to schedule that upon entering Topkapi. The line to catch a brief glimpse of the royal jewels is reminiscent of visiting Dolmabahçe, so I wasn’t a fan. But the armory was incredibly interesting, and for me, the best part of Topkapi.

The Grand Bazaar and Egyptian Spice Bazaar are both worth seeing, but proprietors pretty much sell all the same items for around the same price, though some will bargain more than others. The side streets a little farther from the bazaars offer a different variety of goods, usually at better prices.

We really wanted to check out the Asian side of the city, so we hopped a ferry (2YTL) to Kadiköy. Just across the street from the ferry terminal is a cluster of streets lined with restaurants, cafés, and food markets. We had tea at Diyar Café, a relaxing hookah place that looked like a mountain cabin. Kuruyemiş is a great little market where we bought dried figs, apricots, and tea. Excellent prices and the best dried apricots I have ever had! To top off our afternoon, we saw the most spectacular sunset on the return ferry. A few hours in Kadiköy are definitely worth it!

I’m not a person who usually opts for tours— I don’t enjoy being locked into an itinerary with a group of people who I may or may not like. So, I was a little apprehensive about spending twelve hours on The Other Tour (www.theothertour.com). I will elaborate on The Other Tour in a subsequent post (yes, it warrants it’s own post), but suffice to say, it was the best experience of the entire trip to Istanbul.

I’m not sure how to sum up Istanbul— how do you sum up thousands of years of history and culture? I will just say that, apart from the history and culture, what makes Istanbul so special is the people; they’re warm and friendly— even those who aren’t trying to sell you something. It’s truly one of those places that everyone should see!

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“Something for everyone” is such a tired cliché; it usually means an excess of boring, bland activities. That’s not the case with Iceland; it’s only as boring and bland as you are. Outdoor adventures, thermal spas, great food and nightlife all combine to make Iceland someplace special. We decided it would be a great destination for our buddy’s bachelor party, and it didn’t disappoint!

The forty-five minute cab ride from the airport felt like driving through “Mordor;” I’m pretty sure we passed Frodo and Sam alongside the road. There are no trees, and at first glance there’s nothing idyllic about the rocky, barren terrain. Off in the distance, steam rises out of the earth, reminding you you’re in an active volcano zone. We were there in August, when there are about nineteen hours of daylight, but I couldn’t imagine spending a winter in that desolate landscape with only a few hours of sunlight each day.

The city of Reykjavik, however, is warm and inviting. Three hundred thousand people inhabit Iceland, and two-thirds live in the city. The eclectic variety of bars gives Reykjavik a “college town” vibe. There’s everything from trashy dance clubs to live music and low-key pubs.

Bar 11 (Hverfisgata Street) was by far my favorite. The band performing as we walked in was a cross between Tool and Pink Floyd (two of my favorites), and I was immediately in love with this place. Black walls, covered with tattoo “flash,” made Bar 11 feel like something out of an Ozzy Osbourne video.

Dillon, a little farther away from the main square on Laugavegur Street, was also a bastion of rock and roll. There weren’t live bands, but the DJ played some great music and seemingly everyone had tattoos— this was my kind of place, through and through!

We hit the English Pub our first night for a relaxed, low-key time. For 1500 Kroner ($12 USD), we spun a wheel for a chance to win beer or crap-out with nothing. We hit the grand prize on our first spin— one meter of beer (about 10 glasses). We handed out a few and made some friends, and drank the rest ourselves. Beginner’s luck and an auspicious start to a great, long weekend!

Trashy dance clubs abound as well. The most notable was b5. The line can be long on weekends, but somehow my buddy got us past the line and into the club. The entourage of people we had accumulated by that point was pretty impressed, as was I. The drinks are pricey and the music sucks, but the women inside b5 are beautiful. Olive and Hresso are also clubs, but they blurred together in my memory. Bar hopping seems to be the thing to do, especially because there’s as much going on out in the street as there is inside the bars and clubs.

Traditional Icelandic cuisine brings to mind pickled fish and rotten shark, but there are really good restaurants doing modern dishes with local ingredients. We happened on Grillmarkadurinn or “Grillmarket” (Laekjargata 2a) by accident while looking for another restaurant. This place had the best food we ate during our stay. All kinds of meat grilled to juicy perfection. We started with a sample of three mini burgers— puffin, whale, and langoustine, though I felt a little guilty eating whale. We also got an order of pork ribs and monkfish skewers to start. The grilled lamb entrée was one of the best, most perfectly cooked pieces of lamb I’ve ever eaten; so good that I made sure to get it again when we returned to Grillmarkadurinn on our last night!

We also ate at Fish Company, not to be confused with Fish Market or Fish Factory. I started with a small portion of grilled Puffin steak— red meat, like ostrich, but more gamey. Not bad, but not spectacular either. The fish trio entrée was excellent; the freshness of the fish was evident in each delicious bite. Grilled halibut stood out amongst the perch, Atlantic char, and langoustine. Good meal despite me not being a huge fish lover.

The milky water of the Blue Lagoon was warm and inviting, but there were too many people for it to be a relaxing experience.  It seems to be one of the things every visitor to Iceland does. The place is packed and the water is warm, but only really hot near the vent where it enters the pool. The milky color comes from silicates in the water. Before the water enters the Blue Lagoon, it is pumped through an energy plant where the steam turns turbines and generates electricity— along with solar and wind, this is the cleanest source of energy that can be found. The water is perfectly safe, there’s nothing toxic about the power plant. The Blue Lagoon was ok, but I was hoping for better.

We got up pretty early to make our way over to the Arctic Adventures office for our glacier hiking tour. The two-hour drive to Sólheimajökull (don’t ask me how to pronounce it) Glacier on the southern coast of Iceland gave us an opportunity to see the true beauty of the Icelandic landscape— greener than the ride from the airport. We arrived, got our crampons and ice axes, and were on our way. Sólheimajökull is a small glacier, and although a larger glacier feeds into it, it’s receding at a rapid rate (150m last year). Receding glaciers leave behind an unsorted mixture of rocks and boulders that have been picked up along the way, creating a surreal sight— a barren wasteland you’d expect to see on the moon. Sólheimajökull is covered in patches of ash from a nearby volcano, so it may not be the most picturesque glacier— it looks a bit more like snow the day after a snow storm, when it’s been plowed, trampled on, and driven over, but nonetheless, it’s an impressive site! Hikers touring with Arctic Adventures have the opportunity to rappel down into a crevasse and climb out with ice axes. I have a fear of heights.  However, I knew if I didn’t do this, I would regret it for a long time. So, I leaned back, didn’t look down, and trusted the rope and our guides. I climbed my way back out so fast that I barely registered what I was doing— the power of nervous adrenaline!

On our way back to Reykjavik, we stopped at Skógafoss Waterfall. This 60 meter (about 200 feet) waterfall is incredible! The force from the water hitting the riverbed below is enough to stop you in your tracks and knock you backwards— nature’s strength at its best and most beautiful.

It was early evening when we arrived back in Reykjavik, and the city was hopping with its annual “Culture Day.” We went back to our apartment, took our sulfur-stinking hot showers (the water is taken right from the ground, already hot), and prepared for an all-out bachelor party celebration! We got our buddy a cheesy Viking T-shirt and headed out for an awesome night— that’s where that story ends, except to say that the sun was well up over the horizon when the bars closed down and we made our way home. A strange end to a tremendous night!

Iceland is astounding! The people are friendly, the food and drinks are excellent, and the activities are incredible. It ended up being more beautiful than what we saw at first glance, but there is a strange feeling being in a place with so much daylight, as I imagine it would be strange in winter with so little. In a place so dramatically shaped by nature, it feels a little unnatural.

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I’m perfectly willing to admit that I hadn’t even heard of Macau until my companion said she wanted to take a day trip there from Hong Kong. For those of you as uninformed as me, here’s some background information. Macau was the first European colony in the region, colonized by Portugal, and the last to be returned to China. Designated a Special Administrative Region (“SAR”), a passport is necessary to travel to Macau from both Hong Kong and Mainland China (a fact we discovered at the ferry terminal while our passports were in the room safe). The hour-long ferry ride from Hong Kong was a lot smoother than I was expecting, which was a great relief.

Macau is probably best known for casinos and gambling— with four times the revenue of Las Vegas. Seeing as I have no interest in gambling, I wasn’t sure what there was for me in Macau, but I quickly discovered its colonial and culinary charms.

The ferry terminal is located in the heart of the casino district, and we immediately boarded a bus and headed into town, away from the gaudy, glittering artificiality. Colonial Macau definitely has an older, run-down feel to it, with weather-stained buildings covered in decades of grime; it’s definitely the antithesis of the shiny, modern skyscrapers of Hong Kong. Though, truth be told, Hong Kong has its fair share of grime too, but they do keep the skyscrapers clean.

We made our way to A Lorcha (289A Rua do Almirante Sergio) for a traditional Portuguese lunch. We had read good things about this establishment and it did not disappoint. We started off with some chorizo, and an order of clams cooked with garlic and cilantro. The chorizo was delicious and the clams were fresh and tasty. The highlight of the meal was the seafood and bread stew! I’ve never had stew with bread mixed into it, but it was thick and delicious! Even though we were full, we couldn’t stop eating until there was nothing left. This was one of the culinary highlights of the entire trip!

We picked up a map that happened to have a highlighted walking tour. Since our time in Macau was limited, we decided to follow the guide to maximize what we saw. Macau is very different from Hong Kong in that it has retained its colonial architecture and charm, probably because it’s not a world financial center and doesn’t need huge skyscrapers (just huge casinos). Whatever the reasons, it’s definitely a good thing! We began on the Rua Do Padre Antonio, one block over from A Lorcha, and began walking north. The first sight along this route was the Moorish Barracks, constructed between 1871 and 1874 to house Indian Soldiers brought in to help keep peace in Macau; really spectacular architecture reminiscent of southern Spain.

On our way up to Senando Square, we passed the Church of St. Lawrence, the Chapel and Seminary of St. Joseph, the Don Pedro Theater, and St. Augustine’s Church. All the churches look incredibly similar, right down to the paint, architecture, and décor. They are quaint and beautiful, and being in and around these churches makes it easy to forget you’re in Southeast Asia.

Continuing north from Senando Square, after making your way through a large, pedestrian, shopping street, is St. Dominic’s Cathedral. Though larger than the other churches we saw, it exhibits the same style typical of Portuguese design in Macau.

The Fortaleza do Monte is a highlight of Macau for the view as much as its well-preserved history. This fortress was constructed in the 1600’s on a large hilltop in order to repel Dutch invaders. The walk uphill is daunting, but the fortress is incredibly intact, with many of the original cannons still standing watch on the ramparts. It’s a great spot to sit, relax, and catch your breath.

At the foot of the fortress lie the ruins of St. Paul’s Cathedral— probably the most depicted image of Macau. Built by Japanese Christians fleeing religious persecution in Japan, the church was destroyed by fire in 1835. All that remains is the haunting façade. Though there’s very little left of the original structure, it’s easy to tell that this church was much larger and more ornate than the others we had seen. The stairway leading to the plaza below, where locals and foreigners alike sit and pass the time, was somewhat reminiscent of the Spanish Steps in Rome.

As the time was getting late and some of the main attractions began to close, we decided to catch a ferry back to Hong Kong. The ferries run every fifteen minutes, twenty-four hours a day, but there’s often a wait due the volume of people traveling. Macau is definitely a cool little day trip, but other than gambling, there’s not that much to do on longer stays— I’m sure that’s how they want it.

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It’s interesting how the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong is so very different from that of Bangkok. The best way to explain it is that the crowds of people in Hong Kong ignore you rather than continuously solicit you. I prefer being ignored! Whatever the reasons, I felt more comfortable here, though the residents are certainly ruder than any other people we encountered in Southeast Asia. For example, in Bangkok and Singapore, people line up to board subways whereas in Hong Kong they push, shove and cut you off to be the first one on the train.

Hong Kong and New York City tend to draw a lot of comparisons, the most obvious being their respective skylines. Although I’m a New Yorker, I have to admit that the Hong Kong skyline really outdoes New York’s without question. Hong Kong’s most spectacular buildings are located in close proximity to each other, providing a continuous and impressive sight. Lush, green mountains offer a beautiful backdrop for the buildings; their lights shimmering off of Victoria Harbor create a scene unrivaled by any skyline I’ve ever seen. The view can easily be taken in from quite a few easily accessible vantage points, including across the harbor in Kowloon and from the top of Victoria Peak (the highest point in Hong Kong). There’s also a nightly light show set to music, where many of the buildings light up rhythmically, but it’s not as impressive as I was expecting. The show is free, though, so there’s no reason not to check it out. The two best locations to see the show are the Kowloon side of the harbor (near the Hong Kong Museum of Art), or on a ferry.

There are a few architectural gems left over from British rule, but sadly, many old buildings have been leveled for the sake of “progress” and replaced with modern structures. The Western market is an Edwardian-style building made of beautiful red brick. There’s not much inside that’s noteworthy, but the building itself is beautiful. The old police station and prison on Hollywood Road are wonderful examples of the few remaining Victorian buildings.

I became quite a market and junk-shop junkie in Southeast Asia, and the best place to find this type of shopping in Hong Kong is Upper Lascar Road, known to locals as “Cat Street.” This tiny road is shut down to motorized traffic, allowing stores’ contents to literally spill out into the street. It’s lined with “antique shops” that are actually just a step above junk shops. Visitors can find really good deals here on some unique items. There’s also a lot of mass produced crap, but it’s easy to tell the difference. As with any Southeast Asian market, visitors should be prepared to bargain, though I will admit my own negotiating skills are poor at best, especially if I really want something. I ended up undermining my companion who was trying to reach a deal for both of us, and doing a fine job until I interjected. I still ended up with a pair of unique Foo Dogs, though I paid a few bucks more than if I had just kept my mouth shut. Shoppers can also head to nearby Hollywood Road, which has more high-end antique stores and art galleries— really nice stuff, if you can afford it.

If you’re in the market for jewelry or anything made from jade, head to the Jade Market in Kowloon, where you can find items ranging from porcelain teapots to pearl earrings.  If you’re looking for a bargain, try arriving just before closing time, as sellers are eager to make last minute sales.  Again, be prepared to negotiate! My companion got three pairs of pearl earrings for the equivalent of $7 USD a piece.

The street food in Hong Kong is different from other Southeast Asian cities we visited. Instead of roadside carts, small food stalls and storefronts provide cheap and easy dining options. One roadside noodle stand at the corner of Hollywood and Elgin Road provided a tasty and filling lunch. Full of locals grabbing a quick bite, noodles and dumplings in broth for two of us came to under $7 USD— definitely a good find!

We ate the rest of our meals in sit-down restaurants, which were more expensive, but also very tasty. The Mask of Si Chuen, in the Kowloon district, serves very good, albeit spicy, food. My companion ordered her seafood dish “mild,” and it was still pretty hot, though my shredded pork and pancakes (similar to moo shu pork) could have been spicier. We started with prawn dumplings, had some drinks, and paid 600 HKD, or about $85 USD- definitely pricier than the other cities we visited in Southeast Asia, but we expected that. The decor is pretty cool too— huge Sichuan opera masks hang from the ceiling.

We took the mid-levels escalator from the lower part of the city up to Caine Road to have dinner at Shui Hu Ju (68 Peel St.). Built on the side of a mountain, Hong Kong is very hilly. The escalators were constructed to give pedestrians an easier way to travel within the city. Shui Hu Ju was recommended by Time Out, and the food and ambiance lived up to our expectations. The dimly lit, rustic Chinese décor was inviting and the food was delicious. We started with the pork dumplings, which were every bit as tasty as we’d expected. The deep fried lamb shanks were tender, juicy, and fell right off the bone. The chili chicken was also good, but a pain to pick apart because of all the bones. Really good all around, except for the annoying couple next to us! The woman, who was clearly milking this guy for a free dinner, was rude to the waitress and her inane babble was extremely irritating! Still, we had a very enjoyable meal, which was made more enjoyable when she left!

After Shui Hu Ju, we walked over to The Globe for a drink. Located in the “expat” section of the city and catering to the city’s large English and Australian population, The Globe is a bit trendy, but worth a visit. They serve T8 by the Typhoon Brewing Company and I wanted to give this craft beer a try. Poured from a hand drawn tap, it’s clearly a British influenced beer, though not as heavy or “syrupy” as you’d find in a London pub. It’s a solid beer, but expensive— the equivalent of $9 USD a pint.

Just outside the city is Lantau Island, home to the Po Lin Monastery and the world’s largest outdoor Buddha. Lantau is accessible by the MTR (subway) and definitely worth a day trip. From the subway station, the 23 bus or cable cars will take you to the monastery; we opted for the bus. The Buddha statue sits at the top of a large staircase and provides a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The swastika on Buddha’s chest may seem a little disconcerting, but keep in mind the symbol was used in Chinese culture long before the Nazis hijacked it. If you don’t mind a walk, the Path of Wisdom is just fifteen minutes from the main area. Large, carved planks of wood are set upright in the ground along the path and stretch more than thirty feet into the air. Arranged in a figure eight pattern to represent infinity, they are quite an impressive sight set against the backdrop of the mountains.

I am by no means a horseracing enthusiast, but I do enjoy an occasional race. The Happy Valley Racecourse is a world-class venue for thoroughbred horseracing and definitely worth a visit. Elaborate steps are taken to ship horses in from the United Kingdom, and Hong Kong residents, as well as Chinese mainlanders, can’t seem to get enough of the sport. Being some of the most prolific gamblers in the world, it’s easy to understand why. Unfortunately, the track was closed for the off-season during our visit, but anyone visiting Hong Kong during racing season would do well to check it out.

On our last day in Hong Kong we had to see the view from the top of Victoria Peak before we left. The tram that takes visitors to the top feels like climbing to the top of a roller coaster, just without the eventual drop (thankfully). The view is incredible! Of course, there are shops and vendors selling all kinds of souvenirs, but despite the expected commercialism, Victoria Peak can be quite tranquil— especially on the walking paths that lead away from the shops and meander through the park.

As always, I was saddened when my trip to Hong Kong came to an end, but incredibly satisfied with the time I spent there. Hong Kong, and all of Southeast Asia, was an experience like no other; I’m so happy I went, and I look forward to returning.

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It’s not an exaggeration to say Thailand has some of the best beaches in the world. Unfortunately, summer is the rainy season, but there was no way we were going to travel half way around the world to Thailand and not go to the beaches! We did some research and discovered that “rainy” usually consists of afternoon or evening showers and the rest of the day is warm and sunny— it sounded quite acceptable. Plus, the off-season meant fewer people to contend with!

The rain literally began as our plane touched down and didn’t really let up until our second full day. We had a brief window of sunshine to go out and get some dinner, but we were holed-up in our room most of the first day. Luckily, we had our own villa at the Ayara Hilltops Resort and some good books.

We did quite a bit of research on Phuket beaches before settling on Surin Beach and Ayara Hilltops. Patong, the largest and most active beach, is a party town with lots of Euro-trash. It’s sordid and sleazy, with “massage” parlors, strip clubs, and “ping-pong shows,” just like Bangkok. We immediately crossed that off as a potential place to stay. The airport is towards the north and we didn’t want to drive the length of the island, so that eliminated the southern beaches. We wanted to stay on the west coast, on the Andaman Sea, so Surin Beach seemed like the perfect fit— and it turned out to be exactly that!

When the weather cleared and we finally made it down to the beach, it was a mess! The storms had washed all kinds of debris up onto the beach and the rough surf tossed lounge chairs that had been caught by high tide. Bright red flags posted on the sand warned that swimming was not allowed, but quite a few people ignored the restriction. We found a few surviving lounge chairs and sat out in the sun for a bit, enjoying the rhythmic sound of the crashing waves. The next four days would be nothing but sunshine!

There are quite a few good places to eat along Surin Beach and we had lunch and dinner there most days. The highlight for us was The Red Tablecloth. We became regulars, or as much of regulars as you can be over a five day stretch; we ate one meal there each day, including lunch just before heading to the airport. The owner is an affable woman who told us that even though business is slower, she prefers the off-season because it gives her time to get to know her customers. The food at The Red Tablecloth is terrific, with all kinds of traditional Thai dishes: pork satay, noodles, seafood, curry, and of course, mango with sticky rice. There was no shortage of Tiger beer and the prices were extremely reasonable. Each time we left, they’d say “see you tomorrow;” it was sad on our last day to tell them that we wouldn’t be seeing them for a long while. The Red Tablecloth is my number one recommendation for eating on Surin Beach as much for the people as for the food!

We also ate a couple of good meals at Nok, which is also located on Surin Beach and serves traditional, simple Thai specialties. The people here were also very nice, and the food was also quite good, but it felt like we were cheating on the owner of The Red Tablecloth. It was like we were in some kind of twisted, food-love triangle. When we went back to Nok for dinner the second time, our waiter remembered us. He gave us the same table and even asked if we’d like the same dishes: spring rolls, fried noodles, and Tiger Beers— the cornerstones of any good Thai meal!

Before we discovered the friendly, food-goodness of The Red Tablecloth and Nok, we ate at Taste. This restaurant was a little more high-end than the other two. The chef had responded personally to reviews on Tripadvisor, which shows he really cares about his customers and the food he serves. We started with blackened tuna and an order of shrimp with garlic, basil, and chili. For our entrees, we had red snapper and crispy pork belly with rice and broccoli. All the food was good, but it was a little more upscale and trendier than what we had been looking for. Since we were at the beach, we wanted the casual, “eat barefoot” type of places that we eventually found.

In addition to the terrific restaurants lining the beach, there are a couple of tailor shops offering custom fit clothing. Each time I passed by, I was sweaty and covered in sunscreen, so I never went in. However, one proprietor was very friendly and quite persistent. When I told him that I dress very casually for work, he responded by saying I should let him make a gentleman out of me. He was a nice guy, and seemed a little bored with the off-season lack of customers. In retrospect, I probably should have at least gone in and checked out how much it would’ve cost to make me a gentleman!

We set up a day trip tour to the Phi Phi Islands by high-speed boat ($110 per person with Phuket Adventures). Our guides were terrific— Alice and Bom (as he said: “no atom, no ‘splode”). Despite that joke, Bom was pretty funny, and both guides were friendly and knowledgeable. There may be places in this world that are as beautiful as the Phi Phi Islands, but you’d be hard-pressed to find anyplace more beautiful! The cliffs rise straight out of the ocean and climb hundreds of feet into the air; they’re one of the most spectacular things I have seen. We began by snorkeling off the larger of the two islands in crystal clear blue water filled with coral and tropical fish. Seeing and feeding the monkeys who live on the islands was pretty cool too, but we were warned to treat them with caution, as they are wild animals. Alice told us about a woman who got too close to one of the baby monkeys and was attacked by the mother. We also spent time at several other spots around the two islands, but I wonder if it would have been better to have just spent more time in one or two places.

Unfortunately, human impact on the Phi Phi Islands is quite visible. Trash, oil and gas slicks can sometimes be seen floating in the lagoons where boats stop for tourists to disembark. By going to see these incredible wonders of nature, we are gradually destroying them. While our tour group was very good about collecting our garbage and leaving nothing behind, just being there changes the environment slightly. Multiply that by hundreds of tourists per day and you cause a drastic impact. The dichotomy of being in awe of this beautiful place and knowing that by being there I am contributing to its demise was something I couldn’t shake the entire time.

Phuket was definitely the highlight of our time in Thailand. Though it’s a well-known, tourist-laden spot, it’s also nothing short of spectacular! It was hard hit by the Christmas tsunami of 2004, but has bounced back. It’s worth a trip to Thailand just for the beaches, but if you’re traveling in Southeast Asia for any other reason, a respite on the beaches is certainly in order, and in many cases, necessary.

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In August 2011, readers of Travel +Leisure magazine voted Bangkok the best city in the entire world! I read this just after returning from Bangkok and thought: Did I miss something? Don’t get me wrong, Bangkok has a lot to offer. Anyone going to Southeast Asia should visit. But the best city in the world? From my experience, it wasn’t even the best city in Asia.

By all accounts, Bangkok is huge. You really have no idea how overwhelming it is until you see it for yourself. With over nine million people, its population exceeds that of New York City, and so does its traffic, squalor, and frenzy. The easiest way to get around is by Skytrain (the city’s relatively new mass transit system) or riverboat. In fact, it’s said that if you can’t get somewhere using either of these methods, it’s probably not worth going. In addition to the people, traffic, and urban sprawl, the heat and humidity hit you like a one-two punch— within minutes of being outdoors, your shirt is drenched with sweat. We knew all this going in— it’s part of traveling in Southeast Asia— but in Bangkok it’s just fuel to the fire.

If I had to describe Bangkok in one word, it would be “unrelenting:” the congestion, the heat, the people soliciting everything under the sun. Everywhere you go, “friendly” people engage you in conversation that eventually leads to some scam. There are all kinds of nefarious activities readily available, and not necessarily easy to avoid.

A strange dichotomy exists in this city, where prostitution is readily available any time of day but criticism of the king is met with harsh repercussions ranging from fines to jail time. Offers for “massages” and “ping-pong shows” are everywhere, and invariably lead to opportunities to pay for sex. We stayed on Surawong Road and frequented the Patpong night market. Lining both sides of the street were strip clubs with their doors open to attract passers-by. Dozens of girls danced on stage dressed in identical bikinis, each wearing a number to distinguish them to customers. Promoters out front are persistent to say the least; any eye contact and they’ll follow you for blocks. There was nothing sexy about any of it; the whole thing was really just sad. There are so many stories about girls forced into prostitution, and seeing it is disturbing.

Bangkok is very sexually open-minded, not only about prostitution, but sexual orientation too. It seems to be the “lady-boy” capital of the world. Transvestites are everywhere, and are accepted as part of the fabric of society. It’s certainly good to see people able to express themselves freely without persecution, though I wonder why there’s such a disproportionate number of “lady-boys” in Thailand as opposed to the rest of the world. I saw a lot of “lady-boys” who were obviously men, but I’d love to know how many I mistook for real women?

Questionable activities aside, there are plenty of “respectable” things to do in Bangkok: markets, street food, and Buddhist temples (Wats) are the main attractions. There are three main Wats, all near the Royal Palace. Wat Phra Kaew (“Temple of the Emerald Buddha”) is located on the palace grounds. It would be an enormous understatement to describe the temple’s architecture as grand, ornate, or even spectacular. About a dozen or so buildings make up the complex and each one is incredible in its own way. The unusual design of the palace really stands out as well. Constructed by British architects, this Italian Renaissance-style building was built with a Thai roof— I overheard a guide describe it as “English with a Thai hat.” On a practical note, very few indoor spaces are accessible to visitors, so be prepared to be out under the hot sun.

Wat Pho (“Temple of the Reclining Buddha”) is located on the adjacent block. The impressive reclining Buddha statue is 150 feet long and 50 feet high. As I walked around the grounds, a man struck up a conversation with me about my tattoos. He showed me his traditional Buddhist tattoos and said his monk friend did them. He told me Wat Pho was closing and that he would take me to see the monk tattoo artist across the way. I knew I was being scammed, but he was amiable, so I started walking with him as I tried to come up with a polite way to excuse myself. That’s when my companion yelled, “Where the hell are you going?” and brought me back to reality. I quickly walked away and spent the rest of the time at Wat Pho feeling very stupid!

Across the river from the palace is Wat Arun (“Temple of the Dawn”), which has a much older, less ornate feel to it, but was my favorite amongst the three Wats we visited. We climbed to the top on the steepest staircase I have ever seen. Only when I looked down from the top did I realize just how precipitous the climb down was going to be. It was definitely a little scary, but the view was absolutely worth it!

Outside of central Bangkok is Wat Bang Phra where monks offer sak yant (protective tattoos). Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to visit or get a tattoo, though the idea did initially appeal to me. Those seeking a tattoo need to make an offering to Buddha, usually consisting of flowers and cigarettes— I didn’t even realize Buddha was a smoker. The monks then resell these items to support the Wat. I looked into getting a tattoo there, but I had questions about their sanitary practices. The monks reuse the same eight needles over and over. Needles not in use sit in a “cleaning solution,” though I have no idea exactly what that consists of. It’d be pretty ironic to get HIV or Hepatitis from a “protective” tattoo; I just didn’t think it was wise to take the chance.

The Chatuchak Market (only open weekends) is one of the biggest markets I have ever seen! They sell pretty much everything you can think of: jewelry, clothes, hats, paintings, sculptures, food— everything! If you think it’s hot outside in the sun, it’s even worse inside the tents. The narrow, crowded walkways and stagnant air trap the heat, but getting a good bargain on a unique item will make up for it. Just stay hydrated and enjoy!

The street food alone is worth a trip to Thailand! Every night, Silom Road is lined with food vendors selling everything from grilled meats to noodles and broth, and it is all so good! Just wander up and down the street and eat whatever smells good; it’s a street buffet. Many of the vendors have seating and will bring your food over to your table— now that’s classy street dining!

There are plenty of indoor restaurants as well. One of the best, Suda’s, is located on Soi 14, just off of Sukhumvit Road near the Asok Skytrain stop. The same woman has run this restaurant for 30 years. When I read that, I decided we had to try this place. I knew we were in for a great, authentic Thai meal as soon as I saw all the locals eating here! I started with coconut shrimp and followed it with pork in a red curry sauce. My companion had coconut milk soup with chicken, and mango with sticky rice for dessert. The mango and sticky rice became a daily staple for the rest of our stay in Thailand. With drinks added, the bill came to the equivalent of $21 USD— you can’t beat the food or the price!

A thirty-minute, ten-dollar cab ride in a torrential downpour brought us to the Crystal Design Center. Strange as it sounds, this shopping mall is home to Est. 33, a brewpub run by the Singha beer corporation. Though Singha is the Thai version of Heineken, the brewpub makes an excellent copper ale and a really nice dark beer. The cuisine is American in both style and price— way more money than we paid anywhere else in Thailand. It’s only worth the trip if you’re really into good beer or if you’re tired of Thai food.

One of the most well-known tourist attractions in Bangkok is Jim Thompson’s House. Thompson was a U.S. soldier stationed in Bangkok during World War II. After the war, he decided to stay and revive traditional Thai silk making. Thompson did really well for himself, and his textile company still bears his name today. Architecturally, his house is interesting because it was constructed from parts of six old Thai houses. It’s also filled with many prints and statues that Thompson collected over the years. Jim Thompson disappeared in the Malaysian jungle in 1967; no one knows what became of him. I wonder if his house would be as much of a tourist attraction if he died in his own bed at the age of 90? The intrigue of Thompson’s disappearance seems to be what fuels tourism at his former residence.

Tours are available to Ayuthaya, former royal capital of Siam (Thailand), located about 50 miles north of Bangkok. Unless I’m going someplace that’s difficult to get to or where safety is a concern, I prefer to venture out and discover things on my own rather than be locked into a tour. Since Ayuthaya is easily accessible by train, we decided to explore it ourselves. Be forewarned— the run-down, low-budget trains look like antiques and the air inside is stifling! Open windows and a couple fans offer the only respite from the heat on the hour-long journey. However, the train ride is an interesting way to see an authentic part of Thai life, as nearly everyone on the train is local.

Upon arrival at the Ayuthaya train station, visitors cross the street, pass the enticing smells of street-food vendors, and head down to the river where ferries await. Being on an island where three rivers converge made Ayuthaya easily defendable, and as such, a desirable location for a capital city. The island is walkable, but you can also rent bicycles. The city thrived from around 1350 until the Burmese sacked it 1767. Despite being comparatively young, the ruins look about as old as those in Rome. The climate and stratigraphy did nothing to help preserve these brick and mortar structures— the veneer has come off most, and many are leaning so precariously that you don’t want to stand too close. Dozens of Wats are strewn all over the island, making this by far one of the most amazing places I have ever been! Whether you take a tour or go on your own, anyone visiting Bangkok should take a daytrip up to Ayuthaya.

It’s difficult to sum up Bangkok. It’s a study in duality, a “Jekyll and Hyde,” where neither side can be, nor should be, ignored. The touristy sights are worth seeing, but it’s also easy to venture off the beaten path and have more authentic, local experiences. I question whether I’d go back. Part of me feels like I may have missed something. Another part of me says: I’ve seen enough. If given the chance, I think I would visit again, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to do it.

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As a kid, I never imagined I’d ever go to Vietnam. To me, it was just a place the army had sent my dad during the war. I was born a little after the war ended, and all I knew was what I had seen in the media, movies, and TV— oh yeah, and what I had learned in history class too (apologies to my history teachers, I guess Full Metal Jacket had a little more resonance). Lately, though, there’s been a buzz about Vietnam, and my curiosity was piqued. So, when I decided to visit Southeast Asia, Vietnam seemed like a no-brainer!

The first thing one notices when you arrive in Ho Chi Minh City is the cacophony of motorbike engines and honking horns; it seems like chaos. The impression is that the only rule of the road is that there are no rules. However, once you’ve taken your life in your hands by crossing one of these streets, you quickly realize that driving in Ho Chi Minh City is a well-choreographed ballet and the horns are an elaborate way of communicating. Traffic in a city this large and crowded is not, and cannot be, chaos— it just wouldn’t work.

The other thing one notices are the enormous trees all around the city. The park in the city center, near the Notre Dame Basilica and Reunification Palace, has some of the tallest trees I’ve ever seen! They welcome visitors and make you feel right at home.

Notre Dame Basilica, built in the late 1800s for French colonists, is made of beautiful red brick imported from France. The basilica is more impressive from the outside than from within, but definitely worth a look. Just outside, many of the beggars have physical deformities that invoke thoughts of Agent Orange exposure. While that may or may not be the case, the feelings of guilt they cultivate seem to be intentional.

Across from the basilica is the post office designed by Gustav Eiffel, constructed with all the elegant details you would expect from French colonial architecture and Eiffel. Inside, it would be easy to believe you’re in the middle of Paris if not for the large painting of Ho Chi Minh staring down at you.

Entering Reunification Palace, in the center of Ho Chi Minh City, is like entering a time warp. The décor and architecture is late 1960s and early ‘70s through and through. My parents had the same awful drapes when I was a kid! Strolling around the palace is interesting, the view from the roof is beautiful, and the basement is just creepy. Out front are replicas of the tanks that crashed through the palace gates on April 30, 1975, signaling the fall of Saigon and the end of the war.

For me, Ben Thanh Market is the pulse of the city and the main attraction. The market is sensory overload:

• Sights— goods piled so high and so close together it’s difficult to focus on one thing.
• Sounds— every proprietor calling out to have a look at their goods, and people bargaining all around.
• Smells— dried fish and durian fruit produce an aroma like nothing you’ve smelled before or would want to again.

The market has some really beautiful items for sale at very reasonable prices, however it’s necessary to bargain. The price of everything is inflated and you shouldn’t pay more than fifty percent of the asking price. That being said, the asking price for a t-shirt was $4. It’s easy to haggle over a dollar, but the average annual salary for a resident of Ho Chi Minh City is equivalent to $3,000 USD (and that’s double the average for the rest of the country). That dollar means more to them than it does to me, so most of the time I gave in after a reasonable reduction in price.

The War Remnants Museum is definitely worth seeing, but you have to be prepared for a one sided story of the Vietnam War (or the “American War”, as it’s called there). Of course, the U.S. is made out to be the villain, and no matter how you feel about it, the fact of the matter is that both sides did atrocious things. It’s difficult to see pictures of children affected by Agent Orange exposure, but it’s also an important thing to see. Americans like to think that we have some ethical code, that we’re above others, but the reality is that we can be just as brutal as anyone else. Of course, the Viet Cong were vicious as well, but you won’t see any of that here. I can accept the government propaganda, but what really bothered me were the U.S. dog tags for sale in the gift shop. They looked authentic: beat-up and rusted. If they weren’t real, they were the best reproductions I’ve ever seen. This goes way beyond distasteful, well into the realm of offensive, because they most likely came from dead or captured American soldiers.

Despite the past, the Vietnamese people are friendly and really do like Americans. We never experienced any ill will amongst the people we encountered. In fact, most were happy and pleasantly surprised to meet Americans— they mostly get Australian tourists.

While walking around the city and taking in the sights, there are a few noteworthy buildings you should definitely see:

• The Opera House
• The Rex Hotel— home of the “Five O’clock Follies,” the daily U.S. military briefing during the war
• The Hotel De Ville— once a grand French hotel, now home to the People’s Committee. No “regular” people are allowed too close; we were ushered away from the main entrance. The statue of Ho Chi Minh out front, tutoring a child (in the way of Socialist ideals perhaps?) is a bit amusing.

All three of these buildings are in close proximity to each other and easy to find.

Vietnam is not generally regarded as a beer culture. Tiger, a generic pilsner, is the main beer of choice, but good beer can be found in Ho Chi Minh City. Hoa Vien (28 Mac Dinh Chi Street, Dist. 1) is a Czech style brew house created in partnership with breweries in the Czech Republic. Their light and dark beers hold true to traditional brewing standards, and are terrific! Though the beer is Czech, the food is Vietnamese, and also excellent. The sliced, roast pork was tender, juicy and delicious.

Pho is the dish in Ho Chi Minh City. Vermicelli noodles, broth, scallions, beef or chicken, and some spices. It’s so good and really inexpensive. Every place serves its own variation, but Pho Binh (7, Lý Chính Thắng) was the best. Purportedly frequented by U.S. soldiers during the war, the owner is said to have photo albums filled with pictures that he readily takes out and shows customers. During our visit there were no photos, no albums, and the owner didn’t seem interested in anything of the sort. My guess is that it was the current owner’s father who had the photo albums. This guy “only” had the best pho we ate during our entire stay in Vietnam. It’s all he makes, and he makes it great! Two bowls and two bottles of water cost us the equivalent of $4 USD, and we left feeling full.

We had another great meal at Bo Tung Xeo (31 Ly Tu Trong Street), where they grill various meats to perfection. Well, not all the meat is grilled; the goat penis is steamed. Even though the goat penis does come with the balls as a side dish (both appropriate and tempting), we opted for pork and crocodile. The pork was excellent, and the crocodile was interesting. Crocodile meat tasted a little like steak. However, there’s an outer layer of what seemed like crunchy fat; we weren’t sure whether we were supposed to eat that part. We tried it, but quickly decided to just eat the meat and leave the rest. All in all, a good meal!

Day Trips:

We toured the Mekong Delta with Saigon Tourist, a well-known tour outfit recommended by our hotel. About an hour and a half south of Ho Chi Mihn City we arrived at the town of My Tho, long considered a gateway to the Mekong Delta. Mekong means “Nine Dragons,” in reference to the nine major tributaries that form the delta. The river originates 2,800 miles away in the Tibetan plateau and dumps the last of its nutrient-rich sediment here before emptying into the South China Sea. The delta covers an area of approximately 15,000 square miles and is one of the most biologically diverse regions in the entire world. The region is also a major food source for the Vietnamese people, producing a surplus of rice as well as fruits, fish, sugarcane, and shrimp, just to name a few. We crossed the silt laden, coffee colored waters from My Tho to Ben Tre in a boat made for about 10 people or so. From there, we boarded a long, shallow rowboat and made our way up a tiny channel, past muddy banks dense with thick vegetation. Our first stop was a bee and fruit farm, where we had honey fresh from the comb and fruits right off the trees. The beekeeper used no protective gear and instead of a smoke machine, he blew cigarette smoke to calm the bees— definitely a low-tech operation. Lunch was provided on another farm, and there was so much food, we could barely finish it. I didn’t want to seem gluttonous, but I also felt compelled not to be wasteful, so we ate pretty much everything put in front of us. It was easily more food than most locals eat all day. It was such a strange dichotomy. After lunch, we were offered some snake whiskey— a jar of whiskey with dead snakes, most notably a cobra, marinating in it. We both declined, but later I couldn’t decide whether I had missed an opportunity or dodged a bullet. We continued the day meandering the small channels that snake their way through the jungle, stopping off here and there to get a sense of how the people there make a living. The delta is an amazing place, teeming with life, and I am grateful I got the opportunity to see it and the amazing people who live there.

The next day we toured the Cu Chi Tunnels, also with Saigon Tourist. The Vietnamese people began this network of tunnels during the French colonization of southern Vietnam and expanded them during the Vietnam War. The Viet Cong used these tunnels for guerilla strikes, living space, supply routes, etc. The tour mostly consists of walking the grounds. We visited exhibits showing how the “VC” lived, booby traps, ambushes, and ways the tunnels were disguised. Visitors may also enter rooms and even go through one of the tunnels. The section of tunnel open to visitors has actually been expanded by about fifty percent, and they’re still as cramped a space as I have seen; in fact, I didn’t even go through. The line in front of me came to a halt and all I pictured was being stuck in the tunnel, not able to stand or move. The most interesting part of the tour for me was having the opportunity to shoot an M-16 rifle, the standard issue rifle for U.S. soldiers during the war. Visitors can also opt to shoot an AK-47, the North Vietnamese weapon of choice. This was more of a showy, photo-op, gift shop type of tour, and while interesting, not as authentic an experience as the Mekong Delta.

I wasn’t really sure what to expect in Vietnam. I had high hopes, and it exceeded any and everything I could have asked for. I’m hooked, I love it, and I want to see more: the beaches of Da Nang, Hue City, the mountains, and Hanoi. It’s unlike anywhere else I’ve been and was by far the best place we went on our trip to Southeast Asia. And, now I can begin stories by saying: “Back when I was in ‘Nam…”

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In 1819, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles established Singapore as an indispensable trading port for the British East India Company. Within five years, the British were in complete control of the island. Singapore became a seedy port town filled with sailors looking for debauchery, and locals willing to provide it. Nowadays, it’s billed as a gateway to Asia, a way to “dip your toe in the water” in this part of the world. A major cosmopolitan city, financial center and port, Singapore feels very Western—perhaps a bit too Western. Non-descript skyscrapers and countless malls abound, giving the city-center a generic, bland quality indistinguishable from other major cities. The British influence, in the form of colonial architecture, can still be felt all over the city.

Despite all this, it’s easy to find the authentic Asian Singapore. Not surprisingly, Chinatown is the place to start. After all, seventy-four percent of Singapore’s five million inhabitants are Chinese— and it’s all about the food! The various markets, street stalls, and low-budget-looking restaurants are the way to eat in Singapore. Don’t be nervous or put off by the idea of street food— strict governmental standards ensure the food is clean and safe and, judging by the look of things, they don’t mess around!

Situated just beyond the skyscrapers and business center, Chinatown still retains a bit of colonial charm amid the Chinese influence. After checking into The Scarlet (33 Erskine Rd.), a boutique hotel in the heart of this neighborhood, we headed out to explore and find a place to eat. Wandering through the streets, we were solicited by every shopkeeper and restaurant owner we passed (we soon learned this was conventional practice in each Asian city we visited). We opted to eat at a restaurant filled with locals: Oriental Chinese Restaurant (195 New Bridge Rd.). The generic name aside, this place was really good. We had meat buns, prawn skewers, chicken heart skewers, and chili crab. I was apprehensive about the chicken hearts and looking forward to the chili crab, but I was wrong in both cases. The chicken hearts were terrific: juicy and flavorful with just the right amount of spice rub. On the other hand, I forgot what a chore it is to eat crab and how little crabmeat you actually get out of it.

The next morning we searched for Ya Kim, highly recommended for its kaya toast, a Singapore breakfast specialty. We couldn’t find this small stall in the huge food center, so we opted for another place serving the same dish. The toast is covered with coconut jam and served with a very runny soft-boiled egg. The accompanying Kopi coffee is strong, but it’s sweetened with condensed milk and so good!

Beyond the culture and heritage of Chinatown lies Orchard Road, the major shopping drag in Singapore. Every inch of this area is, literally, lined with malls. It’s a sight to see, but very generic. Unless you’re looking to do some serious shopping, I would neither stay nor spend an extended amount of time in this section of the city. Just off Orchard Road, however, lies Emerald Road, a side street that offers a window into what Singapore looked like during the British Colonial period— definitely worth checking out.

Walking down Orchard towards the Marina brought us to the Singapore Art Museum, an old British colonial building housing modern art. Two of the galleries featured interesting paintings— modern takes on traditional Asian art and themes. The main exhibition was a collection of video work, which is not really my thing, so the building proved to be more interesting than most of the art. Though we didn’t have time to visit, I think we should have opted for the National Museum instead.

The afternoon brought us to Yet Con (25 Pervis St.), a long running, no frills establishment famous for Hainanese chicken— boiled chicken and fresh chopped cucumbers served with broth and a bowl of rice. I know boiled chicken doesn’t sound appetizing, but it was really flavorful, though some chili sauce didn’t hurt. This is the place for Hainanese chicken in Singapore.

As we headed back towards our hotel to regroup for the evening, we walked along the waterfront, past the Marina. Beautiful parks, bridges, and views abound in this highly touristy area. The Marina home to the giant, somewhat strange Merlion statue (the symbol of the city) and beautiful views of Singapore’s financial district skyline. Worth seeing, but I wouldn’t spend all day there being jostled by tour groups.

Along the river, in what’s considered the heart of Singapore, you’ll find chain restaurants and cheesy activities that cater to tourists, but I found myself here looking for beer. Brewwerkz on Merchant Road in the Riverpoint Center felt a little like a chain, but I couldn’t find any evidence to confirm nor deny that theory. They brew their own beer and that was enough convincing for me! I had:

• IPA, which according to their menu has won several awards
• Oatmeal stout, which tasted very typical
• “Black Rabbit,” a dark wheat beer made with banana and cloves
• Amber beer made from sticky rice

While the “Black Rabbit” was interesting, the amber was the real winner; perhaps because it’s brewed with local ingredients— rice— as opposed to imported ones. The beer was good, but the food menu was too “Western,” so we opted to eat elsewhere.

We headed back down to Smith Street in Chinatown. Otherwise known as “Food Street,” Smith closes down to traffic every night and becomes a pedestrian drag lined with food stalls and tables. What we think of as typical Chinese food abounds in this feast for the senses— chicken or seafood with fried rice or noodles is better than any you’ve had back in the States. For more daring eaters, delicacies such as stingray can be had as well. Though I can be adventurous at times, the stingray was just not calling out to me. I had chicken fried rice with some spicy chili sauce and a huge (633ml) Tiger beer— not a bold choice, but so good! The only problem with chopsticks is that I can’t shovel the food down my throat fast enough!

The Maxwell Food Center in Chinatown is one of the best places to eat in the city! The stalls are numbered and easy to find— many only serving one specialty dish, as is the case with Zhen Zhen Porridge (#54). We went for breakfast, and the line was an hour long. I wasn’t sure if the guidebook recommended it because it was so popular or if it was so popular because the guidebook recommended it. Judging by all the locals waiting in line, I decided it was the former. This rice porridge comes with chicken or fish, scallions, some fried crispy stuff on top, and a raw egg, which cooks in the hot porridge. I added raw chilies for some more flavor. It was good and certainly worth trying, but it’s just not a Westerner’s idea of breakfast. The next morning we had a toasted coconut roll pastry at Pan Cake (#26). Definitely more my kind of breakfast! We rounded that out with a fried dough fritter, a cup of Kopi coffee, and sugarcane juice with lemon. The Maxwell Food Center is definitely a must!

We took the MRT (subway) and spent an afternoon checking out the various Hindu and Buddhist temples in Little India. Though the temples are beautiful and definitely worth the trip, Little India is dirty, crowded, and a little seedy in some areas. The highlight is the Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya temple, which has a 15 meter high statue of Buddha and a piece of the Bodhi tree under which the Buddha is said to have reached enlightenment. Although I sometimes feel strange treating a religious place like a tourist attraction, the gentleman in charge was very friendly, pointing out various aspects and highlights of the temple. I guess the main thing to remember is that visiting a place of worship is a way to learn about and connect with other people. As long as visitors remain respectful, it’s okay— still, it feels strange.

The Lau Pa Sat Food Center in the financial district is probably the most beautiful in the city, and the variety and quality of the food is terrific too! The building is a Victorian-style pavilion with beautiful, ornate, wrought iron details. This style of architecture, seen in many buildings and rail stations in Europe, is by far my favorite! I had pork noodles at stall number 102, coincidentally called Pork Noodles. The dish consisted of noodles and broth topped with some crispy, fried pork. So freakin’ good! Drinks are sold separately in the center of the pavilion. This food center is crowded with finance people on weekdays, but was relatively empty during the day on Saturday and Sunday.

The big tourist attraction is the Night Safari at the Singapore Zoo. We figured, why not? Night safari… large nocturnal predators… us not knowing where we are, unable to see… sounds like a recipe for fun! We took the MRT to the bus station at Ang Mo Kio and boarded a city bus for the zoo. As the bus pulled out and the engine revved, we quickly realized we weren’t accelerating very much at all. A few minutes later, as we made the first stop, we saw smoke and smelled burning rubber. That was our cue to get off the bus and wait for the next one. Everyone else had come to the same conclusion, and we soon realized that twice as many people would be waiting for the next already crowded bus. The buses to the zoo only run every hour or so, and by that time it was already getting late. We decided the Night Safari would have to wait until the next trip to Singapore. At least we broke down near the station and not an hour away in the middle of nowhere!

While Singapore may not be what you would call “truly Asian,” it does have a lot to offer, and yes, it is a good way to introduce yourself to Asian culture. It’s not a “must see” and I wouldn’t spend more than a few nights there, but if you’re going to Southeast Asia, it can be a good place to start your trip. It’s definitely a good introduction to Asian cuisine and that, in and of itself, is worth a visit.

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